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You can spur from a ring main for any reasonable purpose, but only one 13A worth is allowed at one point, to keep the ring in balance, so one socket point (single or doube socket count as 'one point' for this rule) or one fused spur feeding anything you like. Sadly if you want more than 13A...

Unless you have some cut with the "thin wall" thread which is fine pitch, yes.

The water pipe should be bonded either in 10mm or 16mm depending on the rating of the service fuse, as near as poss to the point of entry. normally there is a stop cock, but so long as its obviously near and accessible, somthing is far better than nothing. Do not clamp onto lead, over time it...

An RCD is not needed for bathroom lights, it is not even needed fora shower, although it is a 'good thing' to have one. however you will need Xbonding between the lighjtiung circuit earth and the bathroom metalwork, 12V lights or 240, bonding still needed.

But most people who do, have made contact with a local eletricity board sparky who can re-seal it later for the price of a pint or two...

Ah yes absolutely! - that was my point. Of course if you were to feed the lights from the supply side then as it doesnt go through the fuse it is not properly protected, unless you wire the lights in something really thick cable, they may not take the possible fault current required to blow...

As the TV amp will draw a lot less than a typical light bulb, it is fine on the lighting circuit, assuming you can acquire L,N and E from a light fitting, and not inadvertantly wire it into the bathroom light switch or similar. (so watch which wire you cut into for a junction box, - not a...

You could, it would be OK from a safety perspective, but as you would then have a pair of 3 amp fuses in series, there would be no extra protection from the second fused spur.. Probably better to have just a switch after the first FCU, so you can turn the lights off, and have one fused spur for...

No, No, No, its a Saturday in December 2004 accounted for, come on man, get your facts in order now...

With my 'green' hat on I can say both the hose and old radiator ideas will work much better either under glass or at least in a simply polytunnel. The proffessional ones use tubes in a vacuum jacket, but that is beyond easy DIY.

If the wire is there it should be connected to something. Id suggest it is either an error on original installation, or something came away when you opened it up. Is the oven fed by a 13A socket, or a fixed connection box (a bax with fixed terminals?) In the latter case I'd expect it to be...

I've always used the cheapest thin bamboo, plus wire coat hanger and gaffer tape. if I lose one it can be abandoned below the floor at low cost... :lol: Allows custom tools to be fabricated on site, without feeliong bad about cutting something expensive. In funny cases, mis-use of the steel...

Cutting threads on steel conduit is hard work, and needs the hire of the right dies and tooling, and a little knack. Plastic might be better, as a stanley knife and hacksaw are more readily available I suspect..

T+E if coming from an existing fuse board, as when adding an RCD to existing circuit. Meter tail if coming from a Henley block either direct from meter or via main isolator switch, and sharing a supply with CU. Note that the requirement for a single point of isolation is needs to be met then.

If it cant take normal mains borne glitches , is not really fit for purpose, and you have a case against the makers.

Normally earthing the armour is enough to protect the cable against a pick axe - the MCB or fuse will blow as the earthed (earthed by the aromor wires) tool cuts the live core.. Put the RCD at the shed end -it is far easier to reset. How much heating - unless its a lot, a 30A supply wil be...

OK, I'll rise to the bait. I predict that reduced diameter bare earths will one day be depracated, and fully sleeved green yellow, with the same diameeter as the live core will be the mimimum accepted. 8) Nothng wrong with PVC though, if run cool, and in the dark. I suspect most of the wiring...

For ignition only, you only need a low wattage <100watts for certain, so you can plug it in. So if oven and hob are gas, nothing to do at all really.

Actually this inductance thing is a bit of a myth with extension leads- the magnitude of the circulating currents and heating are only very slightly different between coiled and uncoiled states, as the pairs of live and neutral wires tend to cancel each others magnetic fields anyway. - What is...

I'd suggest that at least in spirit, the writers of Part P expected CU changes to be notified to the building control office in advance, best phone your local council and ask if the legality bothers you.. :lol: However, putting that to one side. You need a single clearly marked main islolator...