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Bearing in mind the sub-floor is just 170mm below the joists, if the joists show any sign of decay you should consider making that floor solid. If you do that you want to make sure you get adequate vetilation adjacent to the chimney breast by means of ducting. That is to ensure you have the free...

Any job in construction starts off with foundation work and if that is not done right what follows will likely also not be right. There is nothing wrong with making repairs to plasterboard but if there are as you say, lots and lots of holes, the usual remedy is to rip that plasterboard off and...

It is probable that the rear solid floors were put in as a later "improvement". When that is done the correct practice is to set ducts in to allow vents from the the rear of the suspended floor through to the rear elevation. So check that if you have not already. Otherwise the addition of more...

If your TV bracket cannot be fitted directly to studs due to spacing consider fixing the bracket to a plate such as MDF and fixing the plate to the studs so bolt the bracket to the MDF sheet (use 18mm as you need to recess bolt heads with large washers) then fix the MDF. Studs come in different...

noseall's tank reminded me that even when concreting a tank in you have to hold it down until the concrete sets. The usual way is to fill the tank with water as the concrete surround goes in. Although I have seen some groundworkers tackle the problem with small interceptors by having the...

The water table can vary considerably during a year, with it normally being lowest at the end of Summer. Quite simply plenty of rain will usually raise the level and drought will lower it. So the pit method of finding the level is only any good at the time the pit is done. Any water level above...

Rita, Do check it really works for you. Note the taps midway mounted on the side as otherwise the screens may not fold out the way (e.g. obstructed by commonly mounted end taps). Also note in addition to fitting a standard 1700 bath it comes in different width variations so you would need the...

Reading between the lines it sounds like "Mums" gas fire was the source of a problem with a neighbour. The electric fire is likely cheaper than putting a flue liner in for the gas fire, especially if the gas fire was also an issue itself. A vent is important on flues that in particular have...

A waterproofer in the undercoat may help shield against dampness from within the flue but not condensation on the chimney breast are within the room itself. The cure for condensation is ventilation and heating, or a change of lifestyle so the relative humidity in the room is lowered. Or a...

I would guess, one of the flues is giving you a problem more than the other. Most likely would be the flue serving the ground floor fireplace. With external stacks like you have they will be far more susceptible to condensation as another poster has pointed out. Even if the flues were swept...

This is likely due to the the window head and existing soldiers probably touching. You need to to create a gap for the steel. Also a small bed for the soldier bearing on the lintel as the bricks are unlikely to sit perfectly without a bed.

If your water table is high I would forget it. I have on occasion in my career worked with guys dealing with defects. One thing I recall clearly is the hassle with swimming pools and basements (new build). If built perfectly then great, but just one mistake or less than perfect installation can...

If the pvc ceiling was pretty well sealed then you might be OK. You may get problems if the pvc ceiling allows passage of warm moist air into the void, typically around light fittings if they are flush fitted. The issue is once warm moist air gets into the void it will likely condensate out at...

Depending on the span you can get a "L" shaped lintel to do the job rather than using plain angle or unsightly concrete The end bricks will need cutting and one way to do that before you even remove the soldier course is to drill out the joints for the "bearer" brick so you can pull it out, then...

I thought it might be interesting to post back some findings. Although I was planning to replace some capacitors in hope of replacing a defective one I decided to see if the printer would start up with certain parts not connected. I got lucky in so far as I have found the printer will start up...

Thanks Sam, I was aware that I was not testing under load, and have read about the ripple issue which is why I thought having 42V was not in itself conclusive that the Power supply was OK. I have in fact ordered very low ESR capacitors as the end out cost is really nothing compared to the time...

My bad, I did not read the page linked. I had been thinking silicone grease would be an insulator and possibly would interfere with the contacts. I have not tried it so no idea how hard it would be after doing the connecting. It seems an interesting idea. Pushing in the conductor would...

Thanks, but I had already downloaded the full service manual before taking it all apart! - I used http://elektrotanya.com/epson_stylus_photo_rx585_595_610.pdf/download.html That is where I got the voltage output for the power supply from.

Sam, Just to clarify, would you apply that grease after having made the connections?

Well the Molex brand item you refer to is marked for 568B wiring which you will find on the internet. I can see the 8 wire slots so it looks OK from that point of view, but only solid colour visible in the photo in the middle of each pair. Closer examination should reveal the slot above or...