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I have a winder staircase that has a section of stringer that has three cuts that form a sort of curve. The corners of the cuts have been rounded a bit too. I’d like to add a quadrant to the top of the stringer - I was going to use a rip cut of a bullnose mdf architrave here because the...

I have several door frames and architraves to paint. I’ve sanded back alot of the old gloss off the frames. There are some knots to treat. Although the MDF is primed I had to sand some bits back so that needs re priming. I have Zinnser BIN, should I spot prime the knots and use some kind of...

There is a plastic central heating pipe chased up the corner of the room, too shallow and has caused quite bad cracking in the past. It looks like the chase was filled with some grey material, not brown bonding. At the top and bottom it was only a couple of mm under the skim. The middle its...

It is a central heating pipe. There is no room to put bubble wrap around it because its so shallow. Is there any compound i could use to fill this that won’t crack? Woodfiller maybe? Pva in the filler? There must be a trick. Moving the pipe would be pretty difficult

There is a plastic pupe running up the corner of my living room that is chased into the dot and dab wall, it was almost at the surface at the top and caused a big crack. I’ve repaired the crack for now with toupret filler but I’m wondering if there is a stronger method I can use where it is very...

£40 though! Can i use a stanley blade?

My patio door seems to be square, but at the top, where one door closes onto the other, the first door seems to prevent the second fully sealing. Is this just bad design? Or can I adjust it somehow, maybe the mechanism can pull it in tighter?

So theres a big drip of varnish on my oak veneered front door (inside although whole door was done the same) and I’m wondering if I can fix it? No idea what kind of varnish it is unfortunately. Slightly milky maybe?

I squirted some expanding foam into the gap to the void which seemed to hold it pretty good, then screwed in a countersinked aluminium L profile . Only problem I had was a couple of the screws didn’t hold in the riser because its quite thin and I wasn't being careful enough. And its hard to...

the one I was looking at is Milano Alpha, sort of flat columns (double panelled) https://www.bestheating.com/milano-alpha-anthracite-vertical-designer-radiator-various-sizes-78651?

The room is 5.2 x 2.5 with a 2.3m ceiling. Its well insulated with two double glazed windows 1.25m2 each

So how should I spec a vertical radiator?

Ok I’ll bear that in mind. I’ll have to test it as its set back to 10c at the moment

I want to change the rad mainly for aesthetic reasons.

I’ve tried a few calculators online and none of them come out over 4500 BTU. The average is 3500BTU. The vertical rad I’m looking at is spec’d at 4000BTU at T50, which is more output than most of the calculators suggest. My boiler is set at 65 but its probably less when it reaches the rads.

So I have an overpowered wonky 1200 x 600 x 100mm radiator under a window and I'd like to replace it with a vertical radiator to the side of the window. I'm in a new build with double glazing and insulated cavity walls as well as floors/ceilings. The old radiator was probably about 6500BTU at...

Thanks I’ll try brackets. i’m putting engineered wood over this floor so I guess I’d have to either cut out a bit of the underlay around the brackets or chisel out the chipboard a couple of mm to sink them to the level of the floor?

That sounds like a good way to kick the ceiling off

There is an angled plasterboard ceiling under this staircase (its on the first floor with another set of stairs directly below) so there is no room to sister any joists.

No there’s nothing behind it. Just a void, you can see where the floor ends in pic 2. No access. The other 3 side are glued I think, butbthe bottom moves about an inch if you press it. What about some brackets? The plywood isn’t particularly thick though…