Search results

Hello all, first off apologies for terminology - I'm trying to figure out what the parts are called so I can buy them! As per the pic, there's a piece of trim/moulding that I've highlighted in red between the pvc window and the sill. I'm assuming this was there because the previous owners...

Crank - the windows are A rated! Dishman - that was also super helpful, understood on all counts. I don't have a problem at all with condensation in any of the new windows, so that's not an issue. I was surprised that the aluminium was that cold to the touch. I'd just assumed (wrongly) that the...

Thanks, Crank. But I don't quite follow - as noted, aluminium is extremely conductive, to both heat and cold. So if the cold is getting in (through the frame) surely the same principle applies both to heat getting in, and heat getting out? If the ambient temperature in a closed room is, say 22...

Thanks, Gazman. Seems I got it rather wrong then! But in that case, what is the advantage of thermally-broken windows/doors over the non-broken old style?

Hello all, I recently had some aluminium windows and doors installed. Different models, but all Smart Systems, thermally broken. My understanding of "thermally broken" was that unlike old-school aluminium windows, the break is inteded to isolate the inside frame from the outside. i.e., that...

I just checked out the description of the Maplin product - should I be concerned by its reference to Triac? "Sudden interruption of current in an inductive circuit normally produces a high voltage surge. Damage to contacts occurs due to arcing. In thyristor or Triac Circuits incorrect...

Great, thanks. I'll give that a go!

Thanks to all. Bernardgreen - I'd seen similar threads to this suggesting inserting a contact compressor. To clarify - this would need to be installed on EVERY individual wall light that remains on?

Thanks both. I see that the link I posted didn't show up for some reason - but simply put, under the description of the light, it has various symbols (IP rating etc), and one of the symbols shows 'DIM TRIAC'

Thanks, John. My knowledge is at best limited, so I'm none the wiser. Looking at the Varilight FAQ: Is the V-Pro a TRIAC based dimmer? The V-Pro is not a TRIAC based dimmer. For applications that require TRIAC dimmers, select our V-Com series of dimmers. The link to one of the lights is below...

This must be a hated topic, but please bear with me – dimmer switches! I have had a full flat rewire. I liked the look of the Schneider ultimate flat plate white metal series, so selected that. Have a bunch of the LED dimmers used for Philips GU10 lamps. They work great. I also purchased some...

Ha! Yes. That was before I'd understood you could add a length of cable - I thought you would just have to reposition the existing cable length.

Great, thanks again, understood on all counts. I'll find a slim/flush screwless blanking plate. It'll still be visible, but at least better than having the round switch hit you on the back of the head. Serves me right for messing it up in the first place

Got it! Thanks very much to you both, appreciate the help

Thanks, ban-all-sheds. I imagine this depends on which direction the cables/wires are running from the floor? I.e if the cables are running from left to right, but I need to move it further to the right, there wouldn't be any wire to do this?

Hello all. Somehow got my dimensions all wrong in a bedroom, and light switches on either side of a bed aren't even close to being wide enough apart for the bed that's meant to go there, and not high enough to go above a headboard. Total idiot, I know. Schoolboy error. The builders have pretty...

Agreed. Let's just hope I don't get burgled between now and moving out.... Thanks for all your help, massively appreciated.

Tried it both ways, same result unfortunately. There's no power light showing now on the keypad (whereas there was before), seems a bit odd? Frustrating timing - I'll be refurbishing my flat in about 3 months including installing a new alarm!

I have a feeling I did battery first, then spur. That's wrong I take it?!!

Thanks! Ok, I opened the panel, removed the black and red leads to the backup battery. Then removed the black fused spur. Heard a bell go off just outside the flat, then replugged everything back in. The keys of the panel are glowing green, but there's nothing at all on the display, no...