Search results

Its a Worcester Bosch Greenstar.... can't remember the rest - the quotes on my desk at work.

Thanks for the reply Dave. The boiler is a condensing combi - does this make it a fan flue?

Hi all, Can someone please advise the rules and regs regarding the position of a boiler flue relative to external doors and opening windows. If possible I want to position a boiler in the kitchen but the flue would exit between the back door and the window. Many thanks.

Hi all, Is it a requirement of any regs for the supply to a central heating boiler to be on a separate circuit? My plumber has suggested a better position for the boiler than originally intended, though the best I could do for a supply would be to include it as part of the kitchen ring.

Thanks for all the info fella's, I have to say the Grippa looks favourite at the mo.......... though no doubt vastly more expensive than than the Leadlok or leadline.

Thanks for the replies. ChrisR - I like the idea of the Talbot Grippa - are they easier to use than Leadlok? I've seen plenty of threads saying Leadlok can be a bit tricky.

Hi all, What is the best way of extending a lead water pipe ? :? The first plumber I spoke to mentioned a 'leadlock' fitting, the second said he would push a copper pipe inside the lead and lead solder the joint. Personally I would prefer the extension piece to be blue plastic but...

Hi Smartypants, Basically I have removed the old concrete / tile fire surround and the plaster from the breast and am left with the fireback protruding the breast brickwork by approx 4". I am assuming this will give me problems fitting a new surround once plastered since the fireback will be...

thanks Noseall, Is making it flush the correct way to do it? Where would it be relative to the brickwork on a new build?

Hi All, The concrete fireback in my renovation project is about 4" proud of the surrounding brickwork. Is there any reason I can't dig it all out and rebuild so the front of the fireback is flush with brickwork? Many thanks.

Depends on how future proof you want to be. 2.5mm over 50m is good for 2200w. 4mm might be sensible, this would support up to 3800w over 50m.

Depends on how far the run is. A 2Kw load over 100m distance would require 6mm to overcome volt drop.

Note to self - type quicker!

I would suggest you connect Brown to block 4 - most likely the switched live. Block 3 contains the loop in / loop out live.

Thanks for the replies, My understanding is that the terminals weres simply numbered 1 to 15 with no clue as to what actually connects to where. I haven't personally seen the unit, I am just trying to do a colleague a favour.

Hi all, Have any of you kind chaps got a wiring diagram for a Scantronics 9448 alarm panel. My colleague requires one but the manufacturers won't give him a copy because he's not a bona fide alarm installer. Many thanks.

By external wall I meant is it one of the outer walls of your house. Paving on the other side suggests an external wall in which case your problem is almost certainly cuased by the indifference in levels. If it is practical then relaying your paving 15cm lower should solve your problem...

Is the wall in question internal or external? If it's external the chances are that its penetrating damp probably due to the outside ground level being almost the same height relative to the inside floor level. Ideally the inside floor level should be at least 150mm above the outside...

I thought I had damp on my party wall. Went round the neighbours and no sign of damp at all. Took all the plaster off back to brick and it's now dried out. Has the house been left empty or unheated ? The old plaster is hygroscopic and takes the moisture from the cold damp air.

You may well find that once you've lifted the finish height of the render everything will dry out with no problems. I had a similar problem in my end terrace where the ground level was virtually the same as the inside floor - dug it out by 6" all now dry! I nearly went for chemical treatment...