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For the sake of the extra £6, I think I'll stick with my idea of inline valves in the pipework at skirting board level. If I loosen the nuts on the upper side of those valves, I can avoid draining the rail at all, and only loose a tiny bit of water in the connecting pipe between the pairs of...

Sorry - I expect I'm being thick - doesn't the t-adapter screw into the bottom of the radiator? How can I unscrew it while it is still attached to the valve, if the valve is still attached to the pipework?

If I turn off the valves and remove the radiator, I can see that nothing will come from the radiator, but what prevents leaks from the rest of the system?

Thanks: you're quite right - I was just about to post to admit that I'm being thick this morning, but you beat me to it. My confusion came from the radiator outfit wanting me to buy its 'matching' chrome valves (which are only available as pairs). Of course, I just need one of each (angled &...

I know that: the question related to whether a 'service disconnection' is required before the relocation, or whether we can safely work 'around' the existing meter until we have built the wall containing the meter cupboard.

The aquapanels fit into a corner, and then one full sheet of MR P/B will fit (slightly trimmed) up to a door, so it will be much easier to fit the PB to the aquapanels (I think). I was going to batten the wall vertically at 300mm centres (four battens for 900mm sheet), and wondered whether that...

I'm totally renewing a CH installation, and we want to put a ladder-style towel radiator in the bathroom that can be heated electrically when the CH is not on. I can see that I can buy a t-adaptor that allows the electrical element to be fitted in the bottom of the radiator, while fitting a...

I'm converting a garage to kitchen and the existing gas meter is on the outside wall of the house (inside the garage space) with the supply pipe rising from the concrete floor. As part of the conversion work, the existing garage will be demolished (but NOT the wall where the meter is located -...

Ha ha, I hadn't realised how HEAVY aquapanels are, so dot and dab is out of the question, but I was only going to use them as a tiling base in the corner shower, and do the rest of the bathroom in MR plasterboard. So, I need to drill the boards and drill and plug the walls and screw them up...

I'm renovating an average-sized 1950s semi and having a kitchen extension that will contain a wall-mounted combi boiler to serve 10 radiators & 1 bathroom (bath & shower). I'm planning to use 22mm pipe for the H&C supplies to the bathroom, and bath taps, but 15mm pipes to the toilet cistern...

This is in a bathroom, and there is no wiring that needs to go behind the PB, nor plumbing, as I am constructing a floor-level void 100mm x 63mm on one of the walls using studwork, and will screw the PB to that on that wall. Apart from the toilet soil pipe (which goes straight out, through the...

I was going to put in a CO detector, anyway, along with a ventilation grill, and I won't be taking any risks if the sweep isn't happy that the flue is clear and drawing properly, without significant leaks. Thanks.

Well the materials are being delivered today, so I'm pretty much committed, but I'd really appreciate some guidance on using dot & dab on a ceiling. I've cut a 'prop' to help hold the boards (I'm going to use 1220x900) while I fix them, and I hope to be able to use the screws to get an exact...

There's a big difference between 12.5mm & 30mm! Is this because of making an assumption about how flat the wall might (not) be, or based on 'more is better', or does that 20-30mm include the thickness of the board?

If I'm bonding 12.5mm plasterboard to brickwork using plasterboard adhesive, can someone tell me what thickness of adhesive I should allow for once the boards have been fixed (ie the typical finished depth of adhesive + plasterboard, measured from the brickwork)? Thanks, in advance.

I want to open up a fireplace and burn smokeless fuel in an open fire. I know the history of the house, and know that the chimney is a conventional brick class 1 flue, which was in daily use until the installation of central heating 30 years ago. I've taken out the existing fireback and...

I've knocked a toilet & bathroom into one. The bathroom walls were fully tiled and removing them brought nearly all the plaster off the walls, so I have taken off the rest as well, so I have bare brick, and a plasterboard ceiling that had rough textured paint on it, but where the walls were...

I have recently inherited a house which has only ever had part-central heating, and the radiator panels are in poor condition. The system was a DIY install in the late 1960s and has gravity fed HW & a pumped two-pipe heating circuit, but no thermostat other than on the boiler. The boiler itself...