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pleased it works, thanks for filling in the blanks for me :)

I always state my payment terms on my written quotation. I will not start work until those have been agreed apon and I have a purchase order. if funds are not cleared by due date work stops. If you are over your payment agreement at the merchants, they put you on stop, same applies

buy a hoover

if youve got a screwfix account i think you are elligable for a premium listing with something similar to my hammer, but its free. google trade uk you might find it there. sorry im a bit vague, pm me if you get stuck

thanks jr (tumbs up)

1: NO,dont skim straight on to block, wet or not :shock: 2: if you have a kango? take a little extra time and get the remainder of the skimming off/tile adheasive. 3: Either take a flat chistle oun the kango and take the blockwork back 10mm past the existing, tight coat of bonding, scrim...

bill seargent worked with a good friend of mine paul marriot who worked on andrew lloyd webbers dome commissioned by cooks. google the pics, theyre are awesome, henry, son of jeff orton was at twickenham with me. working on the harling for skillingtons under philip gasches. ill dig out some...

to be honest, i wouldnt have a clue, most of mine are hand made essentials include combs, joint rules, kidney forms, trowel and square small tools and leaf and square of varying sizes, silicone squeezes can help if you are trying to match existing or failing patterns. try model shops? if there...

it pushes lacing eyes in to boot or shoes

sorry about the multiple posts the last 24 hours, im laid up after lifting 2 tubs of putty in the truck and am bored stiff. If you havent gathered already, Im into lime conservation, solid, fibrous, running moulds limecrete floors pargetting etc. I fall on to gypsum when I get a little slack...

Got mine through in september (solid and fibrous) , have worked on 5 listed properties since and have never been asked for it once. another £60.00 wasted :roll: what are they going to make us do next ???????

agree with steve, 6 inches or so below plate lvl for drip bead, steer clear of ready mix, the retarder is a pig, you end up with a crust and a soft background. just batch mix your render plus you can mix what you need. we all work differently mate but the drivers just pupm out at 22 regardless...