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Are you aware of any alternatives to A45 available from the big chains? Most I've seen seem to suggest 3mm is the minimum depth. I may just have to order it online otherwise. The house was built in 68. It has a DPM but I'll be adding a DPM sheet under the underlay anyway to be sure.

Out of all these options what would you go for?

Thanks. Can i just check that SLC is the right thing to use for this? In comparison if it was on the wall I would just use filler as the area is quite small. I’ve attached an example of the worst area.

Just to add if i went for using SLC in the areas missing tiles would using the following primer and SLC be good enough? https://www.wickes.co.uk/Setcrete-High-Performance-Floor-Levelling-Acrylic-Primer---2-5L%0D%0A/p/154148...

I'm going to be laying some engineered wood on to vinyl tiles which I imagine are likely to contain asbestos. The vast majority of them are in good condition however around the perimeter of the room (hallway) some of these tiles have cracked away leaving a maximum of a 7cm gap around the wall...

Harpic. Leave it for an hour and it should pretty much wipe.off.

Yep, pretty much. :) The lack of a support by the wall was a bit of a shock for me :) Yep, I think i've read just about every post on this forum. :) Thanks again - i'll let you know how it all goes.

I'm laying a new 25mm WBP plywood floor. I gave up on replacing the 16mm floorboards when i found out they were damaged more than expected and that you said the depth of them is quite poor. I think i've decided i'm going to go ahead with my idea and risk it as it doesn't sound like what i'm...

Under the wall i'm going have a 16mm piece of wood (the same as the removed floorboard) running the length and suppored by the noggins i put in place. The ply will end by the wall. As for supporting the wall while this work goes ahead, i'm only going to remove 4 floor board at a time and then...

Thanks both. I really appreciate the advice you're giving. I just need a bit more clarity on what exactly is being suggested i.e. If you say to me what i'm planning is likely to fail then i'l admit defeat. If it's a case of your idea is the belt and braces and mine is 90% fine then i'm ok...

Thanks but either way the floor is going to have to be replaced. A fair amount is rotten and some has been cut between the joists. The question at the moment is, is this something i need to get someone in to do or will my original idea of using 6x2 noggins work. Maybe I should post this in...

Once again thanks for your reply. Can i just check though if the idea that i came up with is not an acceptable/safe way to do this or if improvements can be made to it to make it suitable e.g. if 1x1 bit of wood isn't ok, to use further noggins going along the length instead? Your idea does...

On the left side of the picture there is a wooden support going down the length of wall that supports the joists. I'm not sure where the other support is - it's not in the room. The room however is only 1.7 x 2.1 so i imagine the other support would be a distance from this room. As for why...

Please see the image attached for clarification. Red indicated the current joists. Blue indicates the noggins i intend to put in place Grey indicated the pipes Orange indicates the 1x1 piece of wood for the floor boards to lay on

ok, thanks for your advice but it would seem i'm going to have to remove the floor boards anyway. After some more investigation to cure some of the squeaking in the floor boards it turns out there are a few boards that have been cut in half that's not resting on a joist - it's just the T&G...

I seem to be finding it quite hard to get hold on 15mm plywood - it all seems to be either 12mm or 18mm. If i can't get hold of it would the 12mm Hardiebacker or 12mm ply be the best choice? I have noticed that NMP comes in 12mm now as well if that makes any difference.

The joist seem to be 8.5 x1.5 with a 40cm gap. I'm not sure on the span. If i did go for 15mm ply would that help if the floor boards were a bit on the loose side? Also, should i be screwing the ply into the floor board and/or the joists and is there any need to use grip adhesive?

It's about 8cm from the bedroom joist to that side of the partition so about 13cm away to be level with the wall in the bathroom.

The problem is the wall at the bottom of the picture above (which is parallel with the joists) is resting on the floor boards going into the other room rather than a joist. This means if i want to remove the floor boards and lay plywood instead I’m going to need to have something by the wall...