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Thank you, would some of the concrete / bricks need taking away before putting the lintels in? And similarly would the side of the lid that is not on the bricks be supported / sat on a lintel, so all four side of it are sat on something?

Have attached a photo. So the width is about 510mm and length is about 860mm. The bricks / concrete at the edge of the two long sides are stepped over a little, but only for about two thirds of the length of opening. I presume it would be better to have the cover over the narrower end anyway...

I will take a photo and the measurments

So would the lintels go width ways to reduce the length down to less than 500 say? And if so, if the width (which the long side of the cover would straddle) of the remaining hole is lets say a little less than 600 (I need to check the width) how can you reduce that part, given the lintels would...

Thanks to everyone for their replies. Im hoping its balancing rather than something to do with pipes because we have carpet, floorboards, engineered wood, plasterboard covering them. Not sure what one pipe system is.

Thanks for explaining that. Didnt quite follow all of it but I think you are saying the lock sheild on the rads could need adjusting. Hoping its that rather than some obstructino some where. Certainly I dont think there was much attention to setting the rads up; they were put on at different...

ok but the radiators are hot at the top and cool at the bottom, which from what i read means water is being restricted due to sludge, but all pies and rads are new.

Hi, have had new rads throughout the house and all new pipework, and new boiler. Rads are cool at the bottom. What could be the problem? Can it be sludge even if its all brand new? ANy help appreciated.

After getting concrete dug up, the original sized opening for an inspection chamber has been revealed - its rectangular and larger than normal. over 60cm wide and over 90 cm long. How could this be reduced to fit a normal sized rectangular cover?

Hi all, had some repairs done on stairs and PU glue was used. Its like soft foam and I want to use a harder glue. Its to go between riser and tread. WHat glue will set harder than the pu foam stuff? PVA wouldnt work cos its not somehting i can clamp.

OK thank you both, so my question is, with a stop added, what happens about the surface mounted rimlock and keep? Is it just a case of cutting away some of the door stop for the keep to be put into position? So this is for a door that opens outward with a rimlock with a latch that reverses.

If your are having an outward swinging gate or shed door with a reversble latch rimlock, would there still be some form of door stop / rebate?

Hi, any recommendations for what to use on top of old oil paint for external door / window frames? Gave it a good rub down and a clean, and did try some WB hybrid paint, but it didnt adhere great- seemed to slip. Think the best thing is to put solvent based on (either satin or gloss), but not...

ok thanks. As an aside, if a central heating system has a few different circuits e.g. because of different floors, do you need more than one thermostat or is it all still work on having one thermostat for all the rads.

Probably stupid question, but do all radiaotrs have to connected in a loop / circuit. Or can you for example have one seperate from rest with pipes just going diret to it from boiler? Likewise out of curiosity does there always have to be a return to the boiler. What would happen if you just...

Hi, Ive stripped an old 30s door down to the wood to repaint. Not sure what to paint it with though. Was thinking of using Johnstones for primer undercoat and top coat - solvent based. Top coat would be gloss. No experience of painting exterior doors so any other thoughts would be helpful...

Hi, we are having a small wc built in a new extension. Soil pipe comes up direct from floor (i.e. connects to drain underground). Toilet will have to be positioned close to / in front of it as there is no other place for it to go as it is a small room - so pan connector will need to be 90...

Hi we are getting a solid floor put down in an extension where boiler and kitchen will be. It seems like easiest route to various parts of ground floor, for rads and also hot and cold pipes, is in the screed. Can both types of pipe be plastic buried in screed? Thanks!

Actually this is a domestic extension, so its not .18. Its .28 I believe and in that respect, the u value can be met.

no idea tbh. wouldnt 50mm insulation be sufficient. think inspector is ok with it. what would be used for full fill?