Search results

Only suggested RCD protecting the armoured as we don't know that it's actually JUST going to be a single length of armoured all the way to the CU. Most likely it will be the existing cooker cable with a joint to armoured. If there really isn't any way to get a new full cable run in then I think...

That doesn't sound good. I suggest you get a sparky in to have a look. It is possible for poorly grounded earth conductors or any lumps of metal to 'float' up to hundreds of volts. Fault current flowing back through the earthing wire and then through the fault device will only cause a...

Firstly, I strongly recommend you get a competent spark. If it were me (but I'm out of the game now so it's definately NOT going to be me).... I would take a fresh feed from the incoming tails (henley block it as it is often referred). This new feed then supplies a totally separate small...

Thanks for the input, I thought I might get a bit more response. I must say, I quite like the Hagar stuff but the plastic on the CU's does seem a bit flimsy. I had some feedback elsewhere that seems to be leaning quite strongly toward MK. I think I will need to go and get a few items out of the...

There seems to be a lack of replies, no idea why. I posted a question earlier, I got zero replies as well! Anyway, given you have had no response from anyone else, here's my input, if nothing else it may motivate others to chip in (or not). Location The standard 'zone' stuff applies...

I've been out of the game for a while and knowing how things change I wondered what my options are these days for decent quality consumer units? Some years back (at least five) the MK, Crabtree and Wylex stuff were all pretty reasonable - no idea what they are like these days. Any advice as...

Cheers for the replies, I will crack on with the push fit then (lubed up with silicone first of course!) Steve

Is it possible to take FloPlast 110mm pushfit soil pipes apart once assembled? I am looking at a picture of a soil pipe in the Screwfix catalogue (screwfix part number 15484) and it looks like the socket has a metal retaining ring that might prevent a pipe being removed once it has been...

Gents, First off, thanks for the input, much appreciated. It's probably possible to run the vertical SVP inside the building either boxed in or buried in a stud wall that's going to be directly in line with the extisting position of the soil pipe. However, making the connection to the...

Richard, They didn't say a rest bend couldn't be used, only in passing that the connection from the stack to the horizontal drain run should be a long radius bend. I believe the point they were trying to make was that the radius of the bend needs to be long, I think that the radius on a rest...

Thanks for the reply. The three drawings....thats a balls-up! I should be able to get the 200mm distance between wash basin and WC3. However, perhaps it may be better to feed the waste from WC3 in from behind the stack, the wash basin waste will then be at 90 degrees to it which is no...

Attached is a rough sketch of the pipework that has been added to my property to service two new bathrooms. WC1 was already in place, WC2 and WC3 are the toilets in each of the new bathrooms, one on the ground floor and one on the first floor. Does this look ok? in particular, are there any...

I am considering using a shower wall panel instead of tiles in my bathroom - OK the missus has asked me to use this stuff, I prefer tiles! Anyone have any experience with these panels who could offer up any comments about their performance? I like the idea of not having any grout lines which...

I have been gifted a Hansgrohe ecostat 1001 SL bar shower (part number 13261000). How should this part be mechanically fixed? Is there a standard fixings kit? Thanks

Thanks for the replies gents, much obliged. Not sure what building control stance is on this aspect of the works. I will be asking them on Monday to clarify my options. I guess that they maybe assumed there would be a sparky doing the work and they would simply want to see the relevant...

I just stumbled on this:- http://www.ambrosetraining.co.uk/View_electrical_training_course.php?cid=148 Take a look at D101 "domestic electric installer" course Is this correct? I am currently hip deep in converting my loft. I am at the point now where I need to start thinking about...

I need a load of celotex insulation, various thickness. Any suggestions where I can get this at a sesible price? Cheers, Steve

Not a massive job. Need to get get calcs for correct size of steel/padstones etc to be used to provide support for my bungalow roof. I could leave it as it is with the funky sagging rafters and purlin but I am getting the roof re-tiled and I think its sensible to try to sort the structure out...

1. Most Important - floor structure (joists for me) Make sure the floor deflection at mid span point is 1mm under a two fat bloke load. Pretty simple to do just hand a plumb line to just touch the floor then load it and see what happens. If, as with most standard timber floors it sags a bit...

Can anyone suggest a Structural Engineer in the Portsmouth area?