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A Drayton Digistat +RF will do it. The receiver requires 2 wires (A common and the call for heat) The receiver has the option to take a neutral and a satisfied as well but I'm guessing from your post you just require the common and call. The stat then goes where ever you wish! You...

Couple of questions... 1. Do you have a thermostatic shower? 2. Do you have good hot water elsewhere like at a kitchen tap? Carl

Another one to add to the Honeywell suggestion! Easy to obtain new motors and heads if ever required. Carl

I would do exactly as Burnerman suggested. Ply above the ceiling and screw/bolt into that. Carl

If you can, I'd suggest an Aqualisa quartz pumped. They are expensive but I've never had a complaint with one. The pump would ideally sit above in the loft and the pipework is all in the shower rail (no chasing walls out and minimal mess!) you just need a suitable power supply to the...

If this one has a built in slant then horizontal is ok. Just make sure it's level in this case. 3 degrees isn't a lot and if it's not spot on level maybe it's lost the slope. I'd check the deflector and make sure it's at least level as stated. I tend to go a little more than spot on level...

Have a look and see if you have a plume deflecor as well. It should be on the flue at the very end. It should have a screw which can be adjusted so you can twist the deflector to direct the plume in a chosen direction. I have had a case where condensate was getting trapped in this fitting and...

You should be able to see it but it will be very slight! Look at it from the side and you should see it. I think from memory it's a 3degree incline minimum. I would only worry if you are watching regular consistent drips.

Flue should run uphill so condensate runs back to the boiler. You still get occasional drips from the flue outside but it should never be much more than a few drips now and again. Cheers Carl

You won't find a specific device for this, however, there is nothing stoping you making your own metal plate or whatever you decide. I would say to you that you should consult an RGI. There are minimum flue termination distances from various areas, these MUST be observed for your safety. If...

Try turning all the other rads off apart from the dodgy one. It may be an airlock and doing this will force everything round this one rad. Worth a try first as with a new system it won't be sludge etc. Let me know how you get on Carl

An equilibrium ball valve is a rather expensive ball valve (compared to a part 2)which will prevent water hammer. I'm guessing this is why Salamander specify this. I'd just stick with what you have in the cistern and change if you get water hammer. Just changing the diaphragm washer in the...

First things... Have you bled the radiator? I'm guessing it's a sealed system, if so, is the boiler at the correct pressure? Does the radiator have a thermostatic rad valve fitted? Cheers Carl

Hi, Going from gravity to just 2 bar will be a huge improvement, You don't require an equilibrium ball valve on a WC...just a part 2 ball valve. All merchants sell them. Why have you been told you need it? Water hammer? Where pipes are hard up against a wall, I find a good old hack saw...

A complete stab in the dark, but I had this scenario recently... Just check you don't have a fast drip/slow trickle on a tap when the noise is occurring. I had a customer who had the same problem and I found a 1/4 turn lever tap had a very loose gland. This was allowing the tap to open the...