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Thanks woody; so the reason for the beam is that at the back of the house there is a supporting wall for the joists to rest on. At the front the wall is only a stud wall hence the beam above it. We’re not going side to side with the beams because of access. It’s impossible to get a crane here...

Ok I've put some coloured detail on one image in the plan attached here with my limited photoshop skills. The red is the beam, in 3 sections spliced together (the spliced join denoted by the dark blue bits. In light blue are the joists with 2 trimmer joists at either side of the house, and the...

Sorry I’ll clarify later on am out at the moment. Thanks

(Posted under projects and advised to move) Hi all, first time poster so please go easy! I'm doing a loft conversion on my 3 bed end-terrace. I'm planning on doing most, if not all the work myself. I'm a handyman / joiner, but never undertaken anything this big myself before so am happy taking...

I wouldn't put danish oil on it. I've done loads of kitchen worktops. Osmo wood protector is brilliant, slap this on first; then let dry. It's food grade safe as well. Then add 2 coats of osmo top oil; not polyx. It's very similar stuff but polyx isn't food grade safe whereas top oil is...

About no queries? Apologies. I thought this would turn into a rather large thread with regular updates about my progress, details etc. At the same time I was after a bit of advice about how best to get started; as I'm confident on all other aspects so knew this might be an informative thread...

5.5metres

Hi all, first time poster so please go easy! I'm doing a loft conversion on my 3 bed end-terrace. I'm planning on doing most, if not all the work myself. I'm a handyman / joiner, but never undertaken anything this big myself before so am happy taking my time with the complicated aspects...

Great advice thanks. It's inly a 2 m spur for a shower so I'll leave it for now and put hep20 connections on when I get back to do it in a few weeks

Checked; pipe is polyplumb and inserts are polyplumb too. Should be ok for a few weeks until I disconnect water and refit all the same? (In a flat and need to give 1 weeks notice to turn mains water off)

I always thought you could use any connectors they're designed to go on plastic and copper pipe so a mix wouldn't matter?

*Think* I might have made a mistake; I've plumbed a new shower; just pipe work so far nothing else, and used a mixture of grey 15mm polyplumb pipe, speedfit and polyplumb connections. I've used the smooth metal inserts on all connections. It's a cold water supply to electric shower from 22mm...

Cheers I'll try that.

When you say glue to build up; how exactly do you mean? (Sorry being a bit thick here!) Do you know anywhere that does engineered ones (and what is it called the thing I'm looking for) that would work? Cheers mate

Getting my laminate flooring project well under way now, and after levelling the very wonky hallway there is a 25 to 30mm drop into the living room. Will a quick-step incizo 5-1 threshold bar cover this height? Can't find any info on the height tolerance for the reducer bar. Or does anyone...

Ok great thanks. Floors are very uneven throughout with hearths and a large hole where a chimney breast once stood so thought it better to ply down

Sorry I should add that the different flooring thicknesses (12+18mm) are for different rooms not on floor in the same room! A reducer bar will be still required on thresholds

Is there a 'rule' for screwing ply down into floorboards? Am getting 18mm and 12mm ply to screw into floorboards. Am thinking 6' intervals along the edges but do I have to screw through the middle as well? Or will edges be enough? Also is 12mm ply thick enough to level wonky floorboards? Floors...

yes they all have adjustable legs, and will be putting new floor under appliances, just not under units. Kitchen is brand new and I expect it to far outlast the floor. Thanks!

Cheers, it's a total refurb so floor is going to be raised all downstairs and new doors will be fitted. I'm only going to floor up to the kitchen units (not underneath) and retro fit the plinth/kick board once floor is in so shouldn't be a problem. Thanks!