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  1. M

    Help needed removing a Hepworth grey pushfit connector

    Thanks again to all who replied. For info, there was insufficient room to use wire cutters or a wire saw which needs to be held both sides of the cut. What I used was what is on sale on e-bay as a "MINI HACKSAW TIGHT SPACES ELECTRICIAN PLUMBER" - the elegant if expensive (£1.99...
  2. M

    Help needed removing a Hepworth grey pushfit connector

    Hacksaw blade (in a handle holder - no room for even a junior hacksaw) worked surprisingly quickly. Incidentally, why are rectangular kitchen sinks made with the monobloc tap hole and the drain in the same corner? If they were in adjacent corners, there would be rather more room to work.
  3. M

    Help needed removing a Hepworth grey pushfit connector

    Thanks - I just hoped there was an easier way.
  4. M

    Help needed removing a Hepworth grey pushfit connector

    I'm trying to remove a Hepworth grey pushfit connector which was fitted on a 15mm copper pipe just above an elbow. I cannot move the grey outer ring clear of the white insert (on the other end of the fitting, moving the grey ring clear gave enough room to ease up the teeth on the white ring and...
  5. M

    Fitting for access (through plasterboard) to a service valve

    Thank you to dextrous and kirkgas. The plastic escutcheon sounds like what I need - but I didn't know what it was called. If it isn't big enough, I'll try the flush fitting vent. Thanks again.
  6. M

    Fitting for access (through plasterboard) to a service valve

    Thanks for the reply. I was hoping that there might be a simpler fitting - something like a slim tank connector with a flip-up or screw cover?
  7. M

    Fitting for access (through plasterboard) to a service valve

    Please can anyone advise me on a suitable fitting to put in a plasterboard wall so that I can get access to a service valve (ball valve with screwdriver slot head) but close the opening when not in use? Background detail: the back-to-wall toilet has a service valve fitted, but to get at it...
  8. M

    Ventilation gap roof insulation

    A quick Google on Thermawrap lead to this link www.thermawrap.co.uk/loft_wrap_inst.html which says: Installation • Check the area you are insulating and make any needed repairs before installing Loft Wrap. • Unroll the Loft Wrap as you work, and cut it to suitable lengths with scissors or...
  9. M

    Polystyrene sheets in loft

    Factors to consider include insulation, moisture and ventilation and roof loadings. You should either have a “cold loft space” with insulation on the floor (common for a storage loft), or a “warm roof space” with insulation on the walls/roof (for a habitable room); the belt-and-braces...
  10. M

    Scaffolding tower

    Smithybobbins wrote "I must admit I like the idea of the toeboards (not standard). Have you seen me decorate?! I'm guessing 2 scaffolding boards cut to length, and 4 J shaped bolts with wingnuts?....." Toe boards need not be load-bearing (if they rest on the floor boards, as mine do) and you...
  11. TOE BOARDS 2 (half assembly).jpg

    TOE BOARDS 2 (half assembly).jpg

    TOE BOARDS 2 (half-set showing assembly)<br>
  12. TOE BOARDS 1 (side view).jpg

    TOE BOARDS 1 (side view).jpg

    TOE BOARDS 1 (side view showing rebates)
  13. MIXDIYPIX

    MIXDIYPIX

  14. M

    Scaffolding tower

    Hi Smithybobbins, glad you're going for a tower with handrails. One thing you did not mention was toe-boards - in my view, well worth having as they save you kicking the paint tray onto the floor or launching yourself into space when you are concentrating on painting the ceiling. If they're...
  15. M

    Scaffolding tower

    Hi Smithybobbins, If it's not too late to offer a comment, I would suggest that you buy the (much lighter) aluminium tower frame, if all other factors are the same and you can afford the cost difference. If it is easy to put up, you are more likely to use it rather than a ladder - and working...
  16. M

    Overhead outside supply - fastening to catenary?

    Thanks again for all your comments
  17. M

    Overhead outside supply - fastening to catenary?

    At the risk of repetition, I appreciate that UPVC T&E would not be used in a new set-up; I am dealing with the existing situation. (The NICEIC professionals who replaced the ties 10 years ago made no comment about the cable - although from reading other posts about competence, that is nothing to...
  18. M

    Overhead outside supply - fastening to catenary?

    Thank you all for your replies. I think I'll try the double ties method. Is there a recommended minimum thickness for ties for them to be durable? Maplin have "weather resistant self-locking cable ties" with thicknesses ranging from 2.5mm to 4.8mm. I'd rather spend a couple of quid more on...
  19. M

    Overhead outside supply - fastening to catenary?

    I appreciate that T&E would not be used in a new set-up. I need to know how to make the best of the existing situation.
  20. M

    Thread stuck in socket!

    In theory, replacing the back box is easy - in practice there can be snags. If the wall is plaster on brick/block, the metal box will probably have been screwed in to the brick and filler used around the edges. With luck, the screw will come out without breaking, and a sharp knife around the...
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