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DPM's are used on concrete floors, and aren't needed on timber ones. If you have got a decent airflow underneath... happy days.

Blimey, I thought I was "old School" :D

Personally, I wouldn't bother with an expansion joint for a wall that length, it's only the size off a typical house gable after all. If you want to fit one the usual way is to cut a strip of fibreboard (flexcell) 12mm wide, place it against one side of the built pillar, then build the rest...

Two coats are much better. You need to add fibres to the mix as well.

I think you should have put a couple more bolts between the acrows & steel Ade..... ;-)

Yes, then the new floor can make a neater join with the old.

Everywhere were the paving is less than 150mm down from the floor level.

Use 2 DPC's, one at paving/threshold level, the other 2 brick course higher. Obviously slope the paving away from the door slightly. A cavity tray is a non-starter. A 100mm gravel strip between the house and paving might keep BC happy... and looks quite smart anyway IMO. BTW Loved Apache :D

No, a foundation isn't needed for a non load-bearing wall. Solid concrete blocks anyday, for me.

I'd use 1X1m gabion baskets stacked two high, and batter back the top 1m. You can fill them with old bricks/broken concrete etc, and just face the front with stone. That retain it, no problem, and would be the cheapest solution.

4940mm = 22 bricks...

I wouldn't use concrete below block paving as it may impede the drainage of rainwater, leaving the sand wet.. Block paving will take the vans weight, no probs.

Is powder coating better than galvanising then Tony?

Good grief, how could anyone do such a botch? However as you say its been there for years, and taken no harm... Someone would say leave it as it is, and they may have a fair point, but for piece of mind, especially as the beam's exposed you may as well prop it and fit a padstone either side. No...

Yeah, no problem. There's a scaffold firm near us, which has a large permanent scaffold structure. They've used corrugated tin sheets for the roof, with the sides open. Its been there for ages.

A doddle of a job though.. Prop the above wall, fit a small steel beam to structural engineers spec, & make good.

Ours is a 1966 Baxi Bermuda back-boiler. Do I win?

Like Jagger sang "paint 'em black" :-) (or just leave them)

I didn't see the part about it being vaulted :oops: Ours was just a flat ceiling.

Just done one of these using roof trusses. With slate on the pitched part & EPDM on the flat.