Trench vs strip foundation for conservatory

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I have to make a choice regarding foundations for a conservatory. If I go with a trench foundation I will need 2 cu.m. readymix. Access is very poor, so either a wheelbarrow job (with a heck of a lot of trips) or a pump (£££££’s). If I go with a strip foundation I would need only 0.7 cu.m. – maybe make on site with a mixer or certainly far less wheelbarrow trips with readymix!

As I understand it, the former is preferred in the trade because of the time saving and less messing about building below-ground block walls in a confined space. Is this the case? I am a DIY-er so my time/effort is free hence the strip foundation is the more appealing option in my case.

As an aside, can I use rebar in my strip foundations? Are there any technical objections to this (other than the usual ones of being OTT or adding unnecessary additional cost)?

Thanks.
Gofer
 
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Trench fill is only necessary if the trench is too deep or too loose to work in. Do you know the depth your foundation will be?
 
It's a lot of trips with a barrow of concrete, or even more trips with barrows of concrete and barrows of blocks - plus the loading out and messing about laying blocks in a trench.

Rebar is for bridges, not foundations. In any case, if needed it will be designed by an engineer not randomly thrown into the trench.
 
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It's a lot of trips with a barrow of concrete, or even more trips with barrows of concrete and barrows of blocks - plus the loading out and messing about laying blocks in a trench.

Rebar is for bridges, not foundations. In any case, if needed it will be designed by an engineer not randomly thrown into the trench.

Woody -thanks for your response. Since I started this thread I see there is one early today which discusses the use of foundation blocks. Hadn't considered these - they would greatly simplify the process. Lightweight and eliminate need for double skin blockwork and concrete infill below DPC.

I thought using rebar could be useful if I was unable to mix sufficient concrete before the first batch started to harden?
 
Can you get a mini 1 ton dumper truck through your access? Can get a lot of concrete in one of those and they're a cinch to drive. If you're driving it, check that the concrete co don't charge a waiting time if you're too slow unloading the wagon, or practice with it first

Trench blocks are fab, easy and quick to lay even for a novice and you don't need to be hugely accurate but your brick layer will thank you for at least making some effort to keep them level along the run
 
600 deep is no depth. Aim for a 200...ish thick strip and lay a couple of courses of blocks to come above ground. Barrowing blocks is a lot easier than concrete. We did one a while ago with access through the house only so we carried bagged material through and mixed on site. It was a lot easier than trying to barrow through difficult spaces and down a short flight of steps.
 
Can you get a mini 1 ton dumper truck through your access? Can get a lot of concrete in one of those and they're a cinch to drive. If you're driving it, check that the concrete co don't charge a waiting time if you're too slow unloading the wagon, or practice with it first

Trench blocks are fab, easy and quick to lay even for a novice and you don't need to be hugely accurate but your brick layer will thank you for at least making some effort to keep them level along the run

Cjard - thanks for your input. No, I wouldn't be able to get a mini dumper truck in. These trench blocks look to be the answer. I can't believe that a lightweight aerated concrete block can support a two storey building yet that is what is claimed! I will be the bricklayer in this case so I will be sure to get them level.

Any thoughts re rebars in the strip foundation or indeed size of the foundation for a conservatory please?
 
600 deep is no depth. Aim for a 200...ish thick strip and lay a couple of courses of blocks to come above ground. Barrowing blocks is a lot easier than concrete. We did one a while ago with access through the house only so we carried bagged material through and mixed on site. It was a lot easier than trying to barrow through difficult spaces and down a short flight of steps.

Jeds - thanks for your input. When you say "600 is no depth", this implies that this is way too shallow but wouldn't a 200 thick strip plus two courses of blocks come to only about 650 anyway? I agree about barrowing blocks - a lot easier certainly and I won't have a readymix lorry driver breathing down my neck!

This is also why I was thinking of using rebar in the foundation because if I'm mixing by myself on-site I wouldn't be able to pour the footings in all in one go; by the time I get to the end the first lot of concrete will have started to set. Adding it in a section at a time with the rebar in place I'm guessing would hold the whole foundation together (if that makes sense?).
 
If concreting is an issue, then just do a traditional footing of blocks straight off the ground.
 
If concreting is an issue, then just do a traditional footing of blocks straight off the ground.

Woody - no, concreting per se is not the issue, but rather the amount of concrete required. A 200mm deep x 300 or 400 wide strip foundation is ok. BTW I didn't know that I could build directly off the ground - being an amateur I think I would prefer a nice solid, flat concrete base to start from!

Thanks,
Gofer
 
I meant it's no depth to make trench fill a necessity. Surely you can get three quarters of a cube of concrete done in one hit. If not you maybe ought to think about getting some help in. If you must have a joint sticking a couple of bars in the end as a daywork joint won't do any harm but I wouldn't bar the whole foundation.
 
I meant it's no depth to make trench fill a necessity. Surely you can get three quarters of a cube of concrete done in one hit. If not you maybe ought to think about getting some help in. If you must have a joint sticking a couple of bars in the end as a daywork joint won't do any harm but I wouldn't bar the whole foundation.

Not in one mix I couldn't obviously but I was concerned about the time gap between the first mix and the last. Any particular reason why you wouldn't bar the entire foundation?
 
You could bar the whole foundation strip but a, its waste of money and b, its a faff suspending the bars at the correct position and filling with concrete. Use a porters trolley for moving blocks and bricks. Put a piece of wood on it to make it a bit wider if required. Once moved 4000 bricks with one when I was younger and fitter.
Frank
 

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