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My Mid Position Valve has been playing up for years.. But a little tap, jet of air, or some lube seems to sort it. This year its failing more often than working, so its time to change it.. I have sourced a new value and was surprised to see that it had a black button on the side of the...

I don't think its a sticky relay.. If I put it in G mode (so both CH and HW are connected), when I turn on/off, I can hear BOTH relays clicking... There was a slight development.. After many hours of playing (including a total disassemble) I took it to work to show a colleage.. And in work, it...

I have made an observation regarding the jumper.. If I move it to "G" the behavior changes and both HW and CH come on together, so I know moving the jumper does something But if I take the jumper off, it behaves in the same way as it does in 'P' mode.. So i am starting to think that there is a...

I have created a video to show the issue... Basically, when the CH is on, the HW relay does not click

So that makes sense.. Except the programmer has worked perfectly for years (where each 'channel' would react individually).. And suddenly, without warning, started to behave like this. But whilst it was on the bench, I played with the 2 jumpers just in case (there is a 3rd, labelled 1 & 7...

My CH/HW is controlled with a Drayton LP241 (Which is rebranded as Iflo as I replaced it a few years back due to a fault). Its been fine for years but last weekend I 'boosted' the water and the boiler didn't fire.. I then looked (listened actually) to the programmer and it was acting strange...

Just to give an update and closure.. Replaced the cartridge today. Before doing it I spent a while to check the chamber and it was completely empty. And now the problem is entirely solved.. The taps trigger the boiler as soon as they are switched on.. And I checked the push rod into the...

Agreed.. And I am wrong to assume that a "professional" did this.. But equally, please understand when I take offence because someone questions my competance.. Rest assured, if its humanly possible (And safe) for a DIYer to do something, I have the tools, the means, the time and the willingness...

Cheers John... That would certainly explain it.. Do you think the bits can just live in the heat exchanger forever? Or should they be removed? And if they should is this something that i should leave to an expert as I assume its on the "gas" side of the boiler?

No I am not.. I am replacing the whole thing.. Just replacing the Venturi was temping (And not unreasonable, as it has its own part number and is easily installed onto the end of the cartridge), but I figured the whole cartridge was better and it only cost £3 more so it was a no brainer. I...

First of all, thanks for your reply.. I got properly caned on another forum for even asking as I am not qualified to open the boiler.. Whilst I know this to be true, I am not paying someone £100s to fix something as easy as this. The Diaphargm is fine.. Checked that first.. I only looked at the...

Here is my cartridge... I am not missing something? Would you agree the venturi is missing?

Have have just renovated a house for my In-Laws and the last job (why did I put this off??) is the boiler. I am coming here as Baxi give me snippits of help, but keep refusing to talk any more as I am not "Gas Safe", so I hope someone here might be able to help. It has an Baxi Instant 80HE...

You are right... But I am not sure how running fresh pipe would prevent what you said. The bit about the aerated water is exactly what they told me. ANd the reson for changing the Suffolk flange to an Essex. But I still can't get my head around the 22mm feeds.. Looking further into this...

This is my first post, so please bear with me.... I have a new(ish) build house, which is around 12 years old. The hot water system is gravity fed with a large header tank in the loft.. The shower in the en-suite is a simple thermostat/mixer type.. I looks good, as its just a knob/hose...