Search results

Hi all, I've bought a 900*900 slim profile shower tray. I was installing it over the weekend using a mini level to get it level across all four sides. When I placed a level on one of the sides I noticed it was rocking. This was the same on all the sides. If I push down on one side...

Thanks mate... Nope didn't drag, wasn't sandy...I guess I just used too much! (despite following the instructions!!) Oh well, next time, if in doubt will use half the amount stated m=by manufacturer. Can deal with working with a less workable mix, but having to take it off afterwards is a...

Thanks Micilin, The admix was Everbuild Evermix 3 in 1. This I used for the scratch coat. The scratch coat is solid, no problems, can't scrape that off at all. For the top coat I used sealocrete sealomix from Selco http://www.selcobw.com/sealocrete-sealomix-5-ltr. I mixed it the same...

Thanks Roughcaster. The admix used in the scratch coat was a waterproofer and plastisiser combined. In terms of adhering to the scratch coat, the top coat seemed to have bonded. When tapping on the top coat it didnt sound blown and when scraping off, chunks of it didnt come off either. So I...

Hi all, I did some internal rendering and have got a problem with the topcoat. I did a scratch coat, 4 to 1 mix of plastering sand and cement with 3 in 1 admix (from toolstation) Waited 2 days and then put on the top coat. (5 to 1 mix) Used Selco mortar plasticiser as per manufacturers...

Thanks Ree, Good advise. I'll take off the rest of the render and see how the tiles have been fixed and if there is any leeway. Hopefully there's something there! The pointing is completely shot! So I will be doing that again. Agree the bricks look ok, so may leave it. Cheers.

Thanks Ree and alastairreid. They are concrete tiles. I've attached a pic of the roof so you can see how it's been finished. I'll take a look at the cement fibre strips.

Hi all, I have a 1930’s build property which has been rendered. Seems like the original build was left bare bricks and not rendered, and the rendering was done at a later stage. The person doing the render has done some in line with the edge of the tiles, so there is no overhang at all...

Hi all, I've taken off an old bonding coat in the bathroom down to the bare brick. I'm going to and sand cement render on the bare brick. I'll get the scratch coat on, what I want to know is what type of finish shall i go for for the 2nd coat? Do I need to level up then lightly...

Thanks Daniel. I'm warming up to the boss towers. If I get this one, http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.Xboss+tower&_nkw=boss+tower&_sacat=0&_from=R40 Is it possible to extend it to 7 meters by buying more add ons?

Thanks mate, The boss one for £700 is too far for me to collect. Do you know how much it weighs? I'm looking for an occasional use tower. I need to be able to easy move it between locations in a mini van...

I have narrowed it down to the following 2 towers: The monster one seems rock solid, weights in at 250kg! http://www.monsterracking.co.uk/7_5m_scaffold_tower.html The BPS is aluminium, so much lighter and most probably easier to construct...

Nope it's not a cavity wall pinenot. The cracking also shows on the outside of the window. It's a 1930 build, no cavity walls. So guess this makes it a more serious issue?

How long will it take a builder to change? And will there be collateral damage? Rough costing?

Hi all, I noticed cracks in the wall and also it seemed like the UPVC window frame was bowing. So decided to hack off some of the plaster/undercoat and have discovered that the lintel has a crack running horizontally across (see pics) What is the best course of action? It is an upstairs...