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As topic really... how would you normally go about sealing natural stone tiles for use in a shower enclosure? Should they be taken out of the box, sealed and left to dry, then fixed to the wall, grouted and sealed again? OR take them out of the box, fix them, seal them, let them dry, grout...

We are about to tile the floor in a small en-suite - about 3.2m long by 1.2m wide with a 1.2m shower enclosure at the end (so 2m by 1.2m of tiled floor). The room is essentially a strip - door at one end opposite the shower, accessed by walking past the basin and wc...... so its all pretty...

Thank you for the replies, thats good to hear. It was the builder who suggested it may sweat.... I have no idea why (unless he didn't fancy the idea of crawling around in the roof space laying the stuff). Anyway, with that question answered and approved by building regs. we are going to stick...

This may be becoming an issue now.... does anybody know whether Rockwool could be laid on top of Celotex board in a loft situation? For example might the Rockwool make the Celotex sweat? Anybody have any idea what the thermal insulation values are for 100mm Celotex and 270mm Rockwool respectively?

Thanks for your reply, but I can't lie it on top of the rafters as there isn't enough room... a picture should explain:- You can see that the roof 'void' is tiny - hardly big enough to crawl through. I want to know if I can use the Celotex between the lowest rafters, the ones in the...

I am extending my house and I have 8 sheets of 90mm Celotex board (which was orignally going to be laid on the floor slab) spare. I have no floors or ceilings at the moment, just the open floor joists and exposed roof rafters (the roof is tiled and weatherproof) and I got to thinking that it...

Thanks for that, yeah - I need to double check with BCO... am hoping it will be ok as there is another stack at the other end of the house which does vent to open pipe, so hopefully any 'burps' will blow through that one although it is a pretty long run of pipe to get there. I don't think I...

Are there any appreciable drawbacks to fitting an AAV rather than having an open vent pipe on a soil stack? Reason being.... the architect 'missed' the provision of a soil stack in our extension. I have worked out a way of including one, but it means a tortuous run of soil pipe through the roof...

Ah, thanks for that - I didn't know you could clamp them to change stopcocks, so as you say a kink from folding probably isn't any worse than that.

Like an a*se I managed to fold over and kink the MDPE water mains pipe poking out from the oversite... :oops: It has striaghtened out OK, but left a witness mark on the pipe as you would expect. Should I be cutting the pipe back to below the kinked point to maintain integrity? or is it...

Any ideas how I go about this? Essentially I have a new block built chimney, inside which is a concrete ring liner backfilled with vermiculite. The 'liner' terminates at a concrete 'register plate' about 1.5m off the ground, which incorporates a lintel and forms the rectangular fireplace opening...

Thanks for those suggestions, good to know there is a proper solution. With your ideas and after consulting the builder and architect again, it looks like we are going to close down the guage and use the Redland plain tiles at 30deg.... swapping to the interlocking tiles if this fails to be...

Building an extension with a lean-to porch in a conservation area..... all the rest of the house and the extension is built and tiled with Redland Heathland concrete plain tiles or traditional clay tiles. We have come to rough out the dimensions for the porch as the next stage to discover that...

I see what you mean..... The damproofers have lapped their new DPM up the walls a little, right up to the original DPC and bonded onto the original DPM with butile tape up to the DPC, so it looks like they have covered over any of the original breaches.

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