Search results

it can only be fixed above the length to the ceiling as its the opening for the doors otherwise i wouldnt get the doors in unless im being thick and not understanding what you mean

following on from my previous thread im building a stud wall either side and above for 4x762mm sliding mirror doors the opening is going to be around 3m for the 4 doors will standard 3x2 cls timber be strong enough to take the weight of the doors if its braced from the top as you would...

thanks guys i after measuring and measuring i dont think its going to be that noticable i have one more slight worry as the opening is going to be around 3 meters and not have a center support is the standard cls studwork timber 3x2 going to be strong enough with the weight of the...

I didnt think it would be but i have a similar setup at the mo with some old wardrobes built in and maybe its just me looking for it but it is definately noticable im just wondering if reducing it from the bottom to say 10 mil and seeing how that looks i wouldnt be able to do the full 20...

decided one of my bedrooms needs a revamp and decided to go for sliding doors, i have a good space in which i can create a 'built in' effect as the height is 200mm or so more than the doors and width also the same im aiming for something like this: the problem is there is a 20mm...

decided one of my bedrooms needs a revamp and decided to go for sliding doors, i have a good space in which i can create a 'built in' effect as the height is 200mm or so more than the doors and width also the same im aiming for something like this: the problem is there is a 20mm...

well i walked out of the house and what should pull up a plumber!!! kindly asked for him to takea look and pick his brains he came in and looked and he said the user interface is shot! the mainboard was/is fine and just need to replace the user interface he checked all mechinical...

haha yeah you are right about that although i would still like to hear from someone what it could be iv also just noticed that if i turn the water demand on full and turn it straight back off so there is no water the boiler stays on and the rads heat but still no display on the panel or any...

hi again after a bit more help after replacing the boards in my boiler GW24cxi i am still having masses of trouble my display is reading the system pressure bur i cannot get any heating the window dowsnt display a temp and the boiler doesnt ingnite (like there is no demand) any ideas...

leak from any joint? the boards if knackered will be getting replaced just wanted to know a possible reason for why the display would just go blank with a red light on but you are right regards having someone do stuff that know there stuff

thanks guys i have the idea of how its wired now so that should be good to go now the next problem the mrs has just gone to jump into the shower and all of a sudden no Hot water iv had a look and now the digital display isnt on and the light is just red so i whipped the instructions...

thanks guys im a bit gutted now as its going to have to wait if the mainboard is gone as looking at the price they are around the £150 marks and havent got the funds available to get one at the mo. was kinda hoping there was a way around it for the time being so i could just get the...

I hope not as the main board is rather expensive!!! Iv had a good look at the main board and everything looks fine no blown solder or blown resistors/fuses I'm really hoping well praying that its just the control pcb What's the chances of the main board being shot if it looks like new? As...

Well I linked the 2 and still nothing so I gather the board done for Is it just a case of replacing it or could it have damaged something elswhere?

Thanks again sorry about all the questions One final thing the linking you talk about Is this done so I'm able to control the heating via the thermostat? Which if works just means the dials are dead on the interface but will work with the thermostat

Ill give it a try how do I no which one is connection 1 and 2 to like together to try

Cheers pal I will have a go just need to find the pcb and wait for it to be delivered before I can have any heatig which is a pain unless there is a way to bypass it for a couple of days

Thanks very muchh I have the jist of that Although u say leave the link in place is that correct even though the boiler instructions say to unlink?

right after my mate (so called apprentice sparky) blew my 230v control interface pcb by connecting the low voltage controls in effect to the mains power i have ordered a new pcb HOPEFULLY this is all the damage it did once i receive the pcb and replace it im am looking for help wiring it up...

Thasnks for the reply would that just mean the 230v control interface pcb is shot then?