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I think that's where we're at - a decision point between tons of disruption or just living without some low level lighting in the driveway (which is where I think I'm at!) I've used a stud finder to identify a couple of spots where the T&E cables run, and picked some small inspection holes in...

Love this suggestion, it makes total sense! However! Just pulled the wall lantern off it's fittings and it has only a live and a neutral meaning (I think) there is still a mysterious junction box somewhere in the mix behind a wall or ceiling which I can't seem to find.

Success on that front - Known good neutral to thick blue + grey to thick brown results in the low level lighting being on. Tried a variety of switches and none seem to change that. The big thing is that the wall lantern could be switched on/off by the switch in the porch independently! So it...

Just to check I understand properly - connect the thick blue to a known working neutral from another light, and the thick brown to grey?

Thanks a lot for going to so much trouble on this, really starting to get a picture for what I have. All the lights in question here - outside, low level, porch, hallway are on the same circuit on the consumer unit. Interestingly, I just tested connecting the thick T&E blue to a neutral for an...

Yep 1 Black and 7 Blue go to the same terminal (B1). Coming into this hallway switch box are 3 cables which have all been labelled: 'H2 Wall' - which I assume to be the wall lights in the hallway, the 3 wires from H2 Wall are on the right side of the switch in 'A Com', 'A1', and 'A2'. 'P' -...

I've attached pictures of both here - the brighter one is the porch switch in question, the other one with more wires is the one inside the hallway of the house which also controls some wall lights in the hallway via the second switch. Flicking the left switch in the hallway does the following...

Ok I think I can answer to the identities of the cables... - It seems by elimination that the thick brown/blue go to the low level lights although I'm confused as to why neither have voltage when standalone. - The thin T&E pair is the constant/switched earth for the wall lantern outside the...

Wall lantern outside works normally controlled by the switch. Multimeter readings support it - live voltage on brown into com, live when switched on the blue.

Thanks a lot for giving the time on this, learning by the minute... I've just wired up the switch ignoring the 3-core for a second. Therefore I have: Left-Com - Thick T&E Brown + Thin T&E Brown Left L1 - Thick T&E Blue + Thin T&E Blue In this configuration I get the same behaviour - flicking...

Thanks for this - as someone who didn't own a multimeter 48 hours ago this is an education! And by 42w LED what I probably meant to say was - an LED bulb with equiv. 40w output approx. I've tested each wire to earth with the following results: Thick Blue: 4.9V Thick Brown: 4.9v Thin T&E...

Sorry missed this one - there is another cable, its a 3 core (black/grey/brown) which I *think* is connected to a secondary switch in the hallway. I took detailed notes and pictures of both switches before touching them so I've put everything back exactly as it was. The complete layout of the...

Thanks a lot everyone for the suggestions, this continues to beat me. I've never actually seen these lights work which was the reason for my initial investigation but this morning I've wired the whole thing up exactly as I found it and tested it again. The long and the short of it is that I can...

Hi All, I've got a confusing problem which has been testing me for most of the day and I'm now ready to admit defeat and ask for help! This switch in my porch controls 2 sets of lights and I assume there are some junction boxes hidden in the ceiling or in the wall somewhere but this is a new...

Thanks a lot. I have a very random, very intermittent, fault where the RCD trips (mainly on DB1 but once in a while on DB2) without tripping any of the MCBs. I don't have the means to do an insulation test myself so planned to do a visual inspection of all sockets, light fittings, switches, etc...

Thanks for catching that, now attached!

All, Does anybody recognise my consumer unit model and have any idea whether it has compatible RCBOs to replace the MCBs currently there? Would rather not have the board replaced so thought I'd get pre-armed with what is possible before calling a sparky. Thanks UC

Bit of an update on Tado, not a positive one unfortunately. Firstly, installation of the control unit was easy thanks to the advice given on this thread and all looked good to start with until I realised that some of the valves further from the bridge were randomly disconnecting or worse...

Will report back on Tado. It worked really well in our previous house with a combi boiler but the jury is out on how well it will do here. I can see two potential failings: 1. You can only have a single internet bridge and can't add extenders etc so distance between the bridge and the valves...

Oh wow I just noticed that! Presumably they've made the same mistake at the other end of that cable (i.e. brown where blue should be and vice versa)? Or is it possible that they've crossed them over at one end only but it's still working?!