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Yep, I've tried this but no harm in trying again, its due a chemical flush with Fernox so I'll be draining it fully and refilling with inhibitor but waiting more towards colder temperatures to do this so I'm not running the heating when its not needed. If it helps, the trickling noise happens...

Pressure seems fine (1.5bar), I haven't noticed it dropping.

My Worcester 24Ri has developed a water trickling noise which seems to be coming from the bottom of the boiler. As far as I can see, there is nothing leaking. To give some idea of the set up, I have an unvented cylinder in the loft and the central heating side has been pressurised so the...

To update this one, the gate valve below the pump was stuck so the pump was running dry. Leaving the pump off with the WD40 on the gate valve for a couple of days it eventually freed. Pump is now running almost silently and its getting warm as the hot water is passing through it (y).

The whole system is new but the house has been empty for a bit so its only been now ive been able to test it properly. I managed to free the valve but i'm not 100% convinced its working because the spindle doesnt move out as much as the valve above it. Never been a fan of these gate valves...

Could well be, i checked the gate valve below the pump and it seems getting stuck. Put some WD40 on it for now, any tips on freeing it up?

I have an unvented cylinder with the secondary return "circuit" plumbed in on the hot water side with a Grundfos Comfort 15-14 BA PM pump attached. The issue I have, the pump is 'pulsing' so it runs for a second or two, stops for a second, then repeats this. Sometimes, it makes a slight...

Thanks! I'll pick one up, hopefully i'll get lucky and it's a direct replacement. The water is already off and drained as I have another pipe which is leaking following an unvented cylinder install. Hoping this resolves the issue with the cold water supply to the bath and en-suite shower.

Cheers, do you know which one you replaced it with? I was looking to get this one: https://www.toolstation.com/made4trade-lever-ball-valve/p92144#reviewTab

I have a stuck 22mm gate valve which I believe is the cold water supply to my bath and en-suite shower. I want to replace the gate valve with a full bore ball valve, but my question is, are the bodies between gate valves and ball valves standard? i.e. will I need to cut/extend pipework to make...

I wasnt very clear, on the landing where the airing cupboard door is, there is a void between the top of the door frame and the ceiling so i'm going to put a 20amp switch with neon (overkill but i havent seen smaller ampage ones with a neon unless a fused spur with neon is suitable?) there...

This might be a better bet actually, the airing cupboard has a void at the top where a plasterboard back box can go in and leave the switch above the airing cupboard door. Just needs the cable extending slightly. Saves dropping the ladder down again if the light does get left on

Do you mean for the indicator light or the main light? The main light is an LED panel so the mains wires go into the driver

That's how its currently wired (bar the indicator), I will change it as it didnt seem right when i opened up the switch. Not to mention that the cable was lashed across the top of those metal things that hold the roof joists together, if someone put their foot on it, it would have cut through...

Thanks all! I have inherited this loft light circuit with the house. From the junction box, someone has run some T+E through the switch and for some reason switched it on the neutral wire rather than the Live. So, the Live and Neutral are running through the switch to the light. It looks like...

I have a light in my loft with its own light switch is located in the loft on its "own circuit" (it's tapped off the landing light mains but runs independently). My question is, is there a way to wire in an external LED (or maybe neon) indicator lamp from the switch that I could fit to the loft...