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Hi guys, thanks for the replies. Its a composite door, with 2 glass panels above it. The glass is toughened to a bs standard, but im not sure if its k glass. Do you think this will be acceptable. cheers Andy

Hi, guys i have a self employed window fitter who has fitted my windows in my new extension along with a back door. These are covered because the Building control inspector was involved with approving the extension. I have purchased a composite front door from B and Q and i was planning to...

Hi mate, one room is traditional floorbaords, the other 2 are brand new concrete floors. I checked out the flooring todya and the qood layer is at least 3-5 mm Cheers Andy

hi, i had the same problem, you need to dig down 150mm to the ash, roughly level it off, then use 1200 gauge damp proof membrane, then 100mm insulation, then either concrete or 50mm screed. (concrete if you are good with a trrowel) Andy

Ok mate maybe i got over excited and maybe its 3-4 mm on those boards, but it would still take a lifetime to wear this off surely? I am a huge fan of solid oak but in some cases timber is not the best way to do things, ie a kitchen cabinet is more stable made from mfc than a solid timber...

At the kitchen place i used to work. The factory foreman was edging up some panels on an automatic edge bander and managed to get his finger caught in it. The machine then cut 3mm of the end, milled 2mm off, then applied boiling hot glue, then edging tape, then trimmed the edging tape around...

Thanks for that, but surely it cant be that bad?. Jwilliams, i cant see how an engineered floor would wear more than a solid floor? I believe that the wood on the engineered floor is around 5-8 mm thick. I wthink it would take a long time to wear this down? Andy

Thanks for that, i was thinking a 3mm rad edge would like quite smart. I take it you wouldnt router the bottom edge then? i was thinking of jointing it first and then routing it? Would setting up a guide on the worktop help something like a straight edge to run the router up? Thanks...

Hi guys, i am nearly ready to fit my new kitchen including a solid oak worktop which was provided with a square edge. Is is common practice to leave the top square edged, or to router the top and bottom edges or top only and if so what would be the most common profile used. Many Thanks Andy

Hi guys, i am at the stage now of choosing the floor coverings for downstairs, after much deliberation we have decided to go down the road of a laminate type floor or timber. As i dont like the fake printed look of laminate, we are looking to use either engineered or solid oak flooring. We...

Ok mate i will give that a try. to be honest i think it is pva glue. I was going to scrap it all off but i wil try that first. Andy

Hi, thanks for the reply. The second coat was only slightly thinned down and most of the wall id covered its just these runs which wont take the paint. Its kind of like trying to paint a plastic bag it just doesnt work on these runs. Andy

I was using dulux trade matte, thinned about 35%, gave it 2 coats (it covered fine everywhere else) and yeas there is coving up. Andy

Hi, we just had the downstairs of our house boarded and skimmed. We were doing the kind of sealer coat (watered down emulsion) and we noticed there are runs in the plaster ie like something is spilt on it. It looks like coving glue or something like pva. Anyway the emulsion wont cover it - it...

Hi, guys i have been trawling the web looking for a pir security light which you can switch between having on all the time and as a security light. For example if i was using the garden on the night i woul dlike to keep it on all the time, and then be able to switch it to security mode when i...

Yes dont go chopping and sawing without checking structural integrity first.

Sorry, Forgot to say: If you go to the trouble of a new staircase and joists for your storage room you may actually be better off making a bedroom or habitable as half the work would already be done (and roughly half the cost) providing you fire exit situation is ok, this is what i would try...

I think as long as you dont start putting rads and windows up there you should be ok. I think if you inform the building inspector from the start and explain what you are doing he will be ok. Remember that these guys have some valuable advice and tips and you may need him. If you go ahead...

could be that there is no damp proof membrane under the floor or that the one there is teared. Also maybe the gorund outside the kitchen is banked against the wall. Maybe best to rip out the floor and start again. Cheers Andy

Even if the building inspector isnt involved i would definately advise you to do this. I wont cost you much more but will be a lot safer. Splinter has some good advice. Andy