Search results

drain the whole system , rads and all?? or close rads and drain the pipework? I don;t like closing valves under boilers - sometimes they leak after!

Question for all boiler engineers/people who have done this.... What's the best way to re-cnharge an expansion vessel? There's different ways to do it - what I do is this: drain the system until the gauge reads 0 - then drain another 10 litres approx from the system - then re-charge...

your boiler doesn;t have a perm pilot - an intermittent pilot, ie it comes on when a demand for heat/hot water - vent a radiator at the top of your house - does the water keep flowing.... if not: could be a blocked feed - any air in your system - what's the water quality like? is it very...

good point from John506 - I have an Unvented card but very good point. Lots of safety devices on these cylinders

did they change the gas valve at any time?

pull wall (room) stat on about 20 (21) degrees - leae boiler stat to top half setting so 4 in your case I'd say

I haven't got the main VIPER gas book, but the fault finding one they do - cost about £14 - is very good, to the point etc I'll see when the next Baxi courses are being held - had to e-mail them!! :) What part of London are you from? I'm from West!

I was going to join a gas company.... may still do so 3 months at 2 full days a week, plus my on the job training etc But I have been working on gas - well helping out, before so knew about tightness testing/purging/burner pressures/gas rates/componenets of cookers/boilers/fires/etc /...

I get ya - I've got ball ends ones on a little fold down tool ! I've got a Kane 250 - got printer with it, didn't go for the flash one with all the extra add ons! Still cost a lot of money though - got 2 probes and spare filter I did my training in west London at Acton. It took approx...

if i'm changing a rad valve on o/v system what I do is: bung the feed/vent drain the rad (using drain kit and collar) open rad valve to be changed and wait until flow stops change valve

sorry, thought you had bought the new one already and it wasn't what you wanted as stem said, depends on your plumbing - have you got any motorised valves in your system ??

might do - pt it in and see - have you drained the rad 1st? what I do is then open the valve into a pot noodle carton/bucket if there is space and when the flow slows and then stops you know it's good to work on - any gurglign though and be quick!!

yoiu can get long allen keys for removing pump heads in boilers (all different sizes, 4mm etc) - really good reach/magnetic type I haven't found out about the gastec price yet, had a little look at the website though Am wanting to go to the 3 baxi courses - will try and get on them...

I haven't seen your boiler or manul - is it a permanent pilot or does the pilot come on only when a demand is to be made? I suspect it is this type?... Could be a gas valve (solenoid) fault or a PCB fault But usually the pilot will go out and boilert to lockout if no ignition is made...

what was your old timer like? did it allow h/w and heating on their own and together?

try a carrot!! I have those bungs and sometimes don't work on F & E tanks - white nylon expandle ones are good.

when the boiler goes to lockout - does the pilot always stay on?? or does that go out too?

is there no power to the boiler l terminals when hw is on?

OK if you know how to use it: should be voltage to the boiler L terminal when h/w is on at the programmer

I've not replaced a heat ex before - was it one with the o-rings to seal it? fiddly? where are you training at at the moment? what kind if self employed work do you do?