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Whenever we came across this problem we would get as much of the adhesive off as is possible and then reskim it and tile over the top

Thanks John ,the boiler pressure drops to zero anyway when the heating goes off so i assume i just drain off a few buckets of water

Thanks Axel but the reason i am changing it is because there is no pressure ,so do i just drain the water off ?

Right after advice from a few people it was thought that i had to repressure my combi but after reading the FAQ it seems that i need a new vessel as there is water coming out of the air valve I have now got a new vessel and was wondering if there is a right way and a wrong way to change it ? im...

Anyone ?????????? please i dont want to damage the boiler

Yes get it down and have a look , no point paying for it to be skimmed and then it comes down in a couple of months ,same goes with the lounge get the paper off and see whats up ,i have had ceilings that are only held up with the paper and i would try and avoid using a steamer as they can...

Looks like it to me

It can be done but you do need to be up to speed and its a killer having to mix and wash out yourself ,if you can get help then use it why break your balls if you dont have to

Right i have a Grant combi 90 mk11 and it seems to have a pressure problem,when the heating is on its all lovely jubbly and the pressure stays at just over 1 bar but as soon as the heating goes off the pressure drops to zero until the heating starts again ,i have brought the pressure up manually...

Yes i have to agree ,ive lost count the number of times people reject your price as too dear but then call you up a few weeks later to fix what they had done for a pittance I never do go to those jobs ,nothing worse than fixing someone elses bodge up

As a precaution its better in this weather to have a fuller tank as this cuts the risk of the diesel waxing

The Wikes one coat plaster is a good modern alternative for smaller jobs as its quite similar to lime plaster

I would agree with the above

About £16 :shock: ,i just used a cold chisel to get it going then did the rest by hand

Just beggers belief what some people put up with ,surely its no more expensive than having to replace all the stuff in your shed because its all got wet

Without actually seeing it its hard to give an exact answer so i would tend to be cautious and say the way would do it is tack mesh to the walls and then render as normal using waterproofer in the mix and then when the render has dried out paint it with a weathershield paint and it should be...

Thanks guys ,i tried the stilsons but they would go over the nut but not enough room to turn it but i have finally got the pump off using the old land rover method :wink:

As it says really are the nuts on heating pumps a standard size? and if so what size is it ? and where is the best place to get a suitable spanner?

Right on closer inspection and after being told how much a new pump is i have come to the conclusion that it may just be a microswitch the pipes into and out of the pump are hot and down to the diverter valve they are hot too and when the tap is turned on the plunger pops out of the diverter...

I dont do it as a normal thing i was just saying that i have in the past done it and its still ok 6 years down the line and yes your right unibond are pants its just that i have always called pva unibond