Search results

Having tested OK with a yellow site transformer that I hired I wanted to set up a more permanent solution. Saw on Farnell a toroidal transformer 650VA for £33 which seemed a good deal VTX-146-625-155. http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1661839.pdf Plan to put this in a metal box and wanted to...

Changed the capacitor (I'd already ordered from RS so just had the one) and it lives ! Does anyone know what the white stuff is that looks like silicon sealant and is between the capacitors - should I refill the gap ?

If you google DIY sous vide you will see a lot of projects involving a PID controller to hold a water bath at a precise temperature. I got a PID unit from ebay for £32 including temperature probe and a solid state 25A relay. Put this in a box from Maplin or RS components and use it to control...

That's why its 124 not 144 - I was taking that effect into account (honest :lol: ) This is the reverse: Another thought I had - the mains input only powers this SMPS and then via a 12V relay the pump. If the SMPS board could handle 240V then I was thinking I could maybe insert a 500W...

Thanks for the tips. Pardon my lack of knowledge but which would the bleeder resistor be ?

Yes, I should have realised that when you look at other 1000+ W voltage converters they are much bigger and cost more than £15. Problem was we already had this cheapo one and I had forgotten/lost the instruction manual. I am hoping to just solder in a new 220 uF capacitor tomorrow from RS...

Pushed submit to early when meant to prview - have now added a bit more detail. Re the Hz - well it does have a motor with a capacitor. The motor plate says 110 V 60Hz 310 W 1.5 A and so does not mention 50Hz compatibility. However, the start capacitor is 38uF and does have 50/60Hz on it. The...

This is a bit of a saga so I'll start with the short question and then for those who would like the background carry on a bit: I have a Vacmaster VP112 vacuum chamber sealer US version 110V/60Hz 600W. I have blown it up using a voltage converter that I now realise was crap. :oops: I am...

PS. do I need to stick PTFE tape anywhere as well ? (sensible answers please !)

Pressure relief valve needs replacing on Worcester Danesmoor 15/19. I have removed the old one and have the new one in front of me, but it comes with two different washers and I am not sure which to use where. One washer is red and looks like a tap washer I have seen before. The other is...

There is one tee on the tr flow and one on the tr return. Then from these tees I am running 15mm pipes with tees off them for the floor loops. In effect this is splitting a branch off the tr circuit and using the two port valve tobturn it on and off and gate valve to regulate it's flow.

That is what I am doing though ? The existing f&r still go to tr and I have put a tee into both of them(or am about to today when I get started). Have also planned to put a gate valve after the 2 port valve so I can control flow rate in underfloor part. I guess this is like balancing...

Thank you Charnwood. The water outlet is a 15mm quarter turn ball valve. One end is compression fitted onto a copper pipe connected to mains cold water supply. The other end is what the wing nut of the filling loop screws onto. What I had not realised is that the thread on 1/2 BSP tap...

Have now commenced this and am teeing off from an existing flow and return for a towel rail in 15mm copper, passing it through a 2 port valve connected to a wireless thermostat in the bathroom, and running 10mm copper branch loops off the 15mm. I was wondering if I need to include any air...

Sorry for being dim and providing such amusement, but a nut and an olive is not really good. I want to be able to detach the loop easily to use elsewhere without needing a spanner. The existing loop terminates in a wing nut. By screwing the PRV into this wing nut I am left with a male thread...

It's really just a question about fittings and sizes: There is a 15mm copper pipe supplying mains cold water. At end of this pipe is a quarter turn valve with a threaded male connection. The filling loop has a handnut that screws onto this valve. I want to add a pressure reducing valve...

I am not confusing them. I am talking about a pressure reducing valve and how to fit to a filling loop. There is no leak to fix - I am draining the system to add a new branch. There is already a cold mains pipe with a valve on it. The filling loop screws onto thus valve and other end screws onto...

To aid refilling the system without having to keep going outside to boiler, then back in to bleed, etc I want to add a pressure reducing valve to the filling loop. I am wondering what sort of coupling would be needed - the PRV's I have seen are 15mm compression fittings. I am guessing one end...

it was on the control panel, but in the end I got a new control panel for about £100 in 2006. DW is still going strong and it will be 13 years old on Monday !

OK thanks for the advice. I think I'll get the spare pump in and if/when the existing one fails do the swap over myself and then get the oftec guy to come and service it and check the settings.