Search results

Exactly what I done in the end. All went fine until I undone the stopcock and seen a drip, even though water was still off at the meter. Turns out I completely missed a joint whilst doing an elbow and tee at the same time. Hopefully the repair has taken, we'll find out in a minute.

They're brick walls. Think I'll give up on this idea, even putting the waste that low it is still incredibly tight to get the waste plus hot and cold into the service gap if even possible at all, that's before even considering getting the necessary fall on the pipe. Looks like I'm going to have...

I am plumbing in the waste and water for our new kitchen which will be in a different room to the original. I am putting a strap on boss on the soil pipe shown below, this will be directly next to the dishwasher (side on) and the sink will be next to the dishwasher. The only way I can keep the...

I need to fit tees into hot and cold water pipes to make provision for the supply to our new kitchen. At the moment, the pipework runs horizontally into the room I'm working in and then two elbows send the pipework up to the 1st floor. Is it better to cut the pipework after the elbows and...

Could have got away without the speedfit but I'd already bought it in case of drippy joints. Haven't done any soldering in about two years which was a bit nerve wracking. It isn't pretty but seeing as the kitchen's going over it it serves its purpose. Tomorrow onto first time installing strap...

Job done, in the end I bunged the header tank and done one side at a time. I chased the pipe up and on the other side chased horizontally cutting off the existing elbows. For times sake any potentially wet joints were done in speedfit as it will be concealed by new kitchen units and the rest in...

Cheers for the suggestions. This wall is going to be concealed by a kitchen. I'd still rather not go chasing the pipe up the wall in case I damaged it. I won't have access to anything to freeze it, but I have bungs and an old vax wet and dry vac which maybe could be adapted to suck out some water.

I was saying mine are not 'barely' audible. You notice when they change the valve position, i.e they're fairly noisy. Mine are ELV Max!

I have electronic TRVs and I wouldn't describe the noise they make on changing the valve position 'barely' noticeable. People often ask me what the noise is. It doesn't bother me though.

Or do you mean cut into the elbow itself and then remove the remnant after the water had drained?

Cheers for the replies guys. I was hoping to just remove the elbow and leave the pipe attached to the other elbow. If I cut the pipe, how will I get the new elbow on?

There's a bit more space between the fittings on the side shown, the other side is just a sliver of pipe between them. So I want to remove the elbow below the TRV and replace with the same, just running horizontally instead of vertically.

I need to move a radiator, it's 10mm microbore and the pipes are buried in a brick wall. The pipework runs vertically downwards and coming out of the wall there is an elbow, then about a millimetre of pipe is visible before the next elbow that runs up to the TRV/valve. I would like to remove...

No electrics and I've not damaged anything. I decided to go in underneath, luckily a kitchen will be going in over the mess.

20161121_162159 by dan1w posted 21 Nov 2016 at 4:26 PM I am moving a radiator from one side of a wall to the other. The wall is brick with the occassional course of block. When drilling one of the holes to run one of the pipes through to the other side I luckily realised I'd hit metal as seen...

No, as far as I know no built under double ovens sit in a housing.

After realising I spent a small fortune on end panels that were almost completely concealed on my previous kitchen, this time I'm working through the plan and removing all unnecessary items before I okay the design. One thing I'm not sure about, the design has specced an end panel either side...