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if it was on the rad side-you could drain your rad and fit a new olive if tightening didn't work. on the pipe side, yu'll need to probably drain down as best bet and undo inspect and change olive

does the pcb look OK? no signs of smokeyness!! fuse(s) ok??

combi boiler needs water in the main (primary) heat exchanger to be able to heat the hot water (diverter vale diverts it to h/w heat exchanger when a tap is opened - so if the system is fully drained - then the boiler will overheat/not fire/go to lockout as no water is inside it!!!

did he check the boiler stat/over heat stat and air pressure switch/thermistor(s) were OK? is the flueway/terminal blocked at all?

If it's not sparking it could be anything - is the fan running??

a lot of older boilers with permanent pilot lights didn't have overheat stats, just a normal boiler stat. which if failed would bring the vent pipe into action

is the cold water tanks lid off? does it look clear inside?

I have noticed one of my upstairs radiators has a small leak - like a spurt (quite forecful) but not at a major folw rate. It looks a bit of an old rusty radiator. I have a large bucket angled so catching the water and it is only filling very slowly. Can I use an external leak...

Try the old valve with the elbow, then you will know if it is the elbow! Also check you have the smaller orifice in: ball valves come with 2 orifices, 1 for low pressure and 1 for high. Does the new cistern have a backplate (with the ball valve inserted through it to steady it to the...

Good idea John - Equilibrium valves are not normally for use in cold water cisterns, mainly for WC cisterns. Also, OP have you got the correct orificie in the new ballvalve?

Can a 3 port valve stick in the HTG only position? And if so, will it bring on the heating (by firing boiler/starting pump) constantly or ONLY when the programmer gives it power via the stat? I know 2 port valves can stick and override the prorammer and room/cylinder stat as they have a...

well the boiler does both heating and hot water, correct? if so, don't use your immersion heater as well!

if the pump works when you did the test then the pump has failed - usually rare for this to blow the fuse but replace it.

so are you saying you have an electric boiler? or not?

so you have a gas boiler? or is it an electric one?

if you drain some more water from the drain point, then you may shift the airlock and the boiler's pilot light may re-light again. although this may not be the reason... you may need a new thermocouple, sounds like a new boiler stat is required and also a good clean/service of your boiler.

so you have a boiler?

you may have the old type of electric storage heaters - which are like economy 7 / run of the elctricity as the immersion heater is.

sorry for the confusion - when it says remove wires 1 and 2 to prevent backread signals - does it mean, remove them from the terminal blocks they are in ?? :oops:

sorry; basically to prove the cylinsder stat is def faulty, i do the test to make sure 1 (CALL) termianl is live when calling, and remove what other terminals.....