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Hi Mac - your view echos the view of others that I have spoken to. My neighbour is an engineer and he thinks it's settlement along the gables as you say. The neighbour (since the properties are joined) also has no cracks in his walls. There is NO need to remove any boards to inspect the...

There is a cellar under this floor so access is about as good as gets. All the timber is perfect. This leads me to believe it's the whole house. However I've been here eight years and there are no signs (cracks in plaster) of any current movement. The house is on a hill and was built over 120...

Hi people, I plan to lay a solid floor into two adjoining rooms. They are only connected by a doorway. The rear of the house appears to have sunk by about 1" relative to the front and about 1" at the sides relative to itself. In other words there is a crown in the rear floor - or more of a...

Hi - I have a small section of floor that is screed. small = 1400 X 340 mm. The front of the screed is 23mm below the desired finish hight. The screed is not level and falls away evenly to a hight at the rear of 35mm below the desired finish hight. I wonder what the best way to affix a...

At long last... after four days of leaving all the windows and doors open the floor is finally starting to show cracks between the boards. The moisture content is comming down to between 10% and 18% - mostly 12 - 15%. Still a way to go yet though I should think. It must have been all the...

Oh I see... Thanks very much for the answer. I have read that the subfloor really should be within a couple of percent of the new delivered Oak. So ideally 10 - 12% moisture. Since the final quote for the floor hasn't been compiled yet; and thereafter it's 10 days to run it through the...

If there is any doubt whatsoever - I won't be fitting one. Perhaps you could elaborate more throughly on what I should be expecting to see in ideal conditions from both the newly purchased oak and an acceptable sub floor upon which to install it? The method i plan to use would be 6mm birch...

Hmm more panic.. and confusion... If I just rest the meter on the surface of the timber it's 12% everywhere, even at the edges. If I push the probes into the wood 1 - 2 mm then the moisture content increases alot - to between 16 and 20%. This seems nuts. The underlay I removed has a...

Correction - the whole floor seems to be at about 20% moisture. When I got underneath it and poked the joists and boards that was the reading throughout. Strange - becuase you can feel the draught from the air bricks...

I bought a moisture meter to test the timber joist and board subfloor. It seems to mostly be at 12%. However each board that is near an exterior wall has the first 6" with higher moisture. This first 6" is around 20% moisture. // I had planned to lay 6mm ply over the existing 22mm...

unfortunately the concrete section is also not straight or level. That's why in the photo it's hard to see. It's a cap for the old masonry wall foundation underneath. When they were leveling it - they just drew it flush with the timbers each side - so it slopes right to left. I like the...

I have a picture of a problem where my subfloor is not level. I want to lay a new oak floor perpendicular to the old floor. The floor to the right of the concrete is 10mm higher than the floor to the left of the concrete. This will create a weakness in the boards joining at that point. The...

I have a picture of my problem where the subfloor is not level. I want to lay the new floor perpendicular to the old floor. The floor to the right of the concrete is 10mm higher than the floor to the left of the concrete. This will create a weakness in the boards joining at that point. The...