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That's good to know. All the 9" grinders I've used have been old ones, where you had to change grip to knock off a locked-on switch.

Thanks. There's no mention of a dead man's switch, though. Having looked around some more, Metabo grinders seem to have both. To be honest, although I use one occasionally, I'm scared s**tless of large grinders, having almost lost my hand to one a few years ago. So knowing that it will stop if...

Does it have its firebricks, or are we looking at rusty cast iron inside, in the photo?

Can anyone recommend a reasonably priced 230mm angle grinder with soft start, and a dead man's switch? I've looked at Toolstation's website and it's not clear which if any have the latter

I don't think it's the software; it's the people

I honestly think that after two or three coats of paint, you won't be able to tell the difference.

For up to half an inch here and there? I think you're over-thinking, and potentially making huge amounts of unnecessary work for yourself. It's a garage, not a piece of precision engineering.

I don't see the problem. Screw the OSB to the joists (it will follow any uppy downy bits), then do the EPDM. 10mm is not going to throw anything out. As long as the roof drains.

I don't see any reason not to, apart from the poor edges you mention. if you can live with those it will be a lot less work than stripping, especially if the plaster underneath proves not to be in good condition

Mythbusters dealt with a similar problem, with set concrete in a truck. They used explosives

Why not sand the floorboards, then oil them? Less expensive and it won't look fake for the house.

https://uk.trustpilot.com/review/skirtingboardsdirect.com

I've done two flat roofs (20 m2 and 25 m2), water based adhesive to the deck, not a ripple or bubble in either of them. There are videos on Youtube and here: http://www.rubba-seal.co.uk/ Laying out the EPDM to lose its creases is good practice. All the better if the sun is on it. Ideally you...

The joists may be within span, but is the chipboard flooring? If it's 22mm it is; if it's 18mm, it isn't.

Look at the blockwork - the joists are at 600 centres

I suggested a floorboard saw because he's going to have to cut right to the end

You'll get more responses if you post in the specific forums here. "Your projects" is for completed projects.

I imagined myself facing this situation, and while I can think of ways to do it, I would probably live with it. Otherwise cut the tongues out with a floorboard saw, and hammer/lever the boards out (easier than trying to drill the brads). If you don't want to remove the skirting on the side...

Arguably the wall there now is not adjacent to the highway, but the new wall would be, and would therefore be subject to a height limit of 1m to be permitted development. I say "new wall", because once you've knocked down that stretch of wall, there is no wall there. Not sure that demolishing a...

Yes, it stuck very well and is still stuck four years on. The important thing is for the OSB to be absolutely dry. I do remember a small dusting of talc here and there, but I didn't do anything about it. I'd like to see a reply from MW Roofline, because he is a roofer and I am not.