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After the flood, the builders took it back to bare wall, dried it with heaters/fans/dehumidifiers and then repaired it. As far as I'm aware, it's been dry since then. Before the flood, wallpaper was up. The wallpaper never had any signs of mould or felt wet.

My mother's house has a half subterranean floor, which was flooded in 2011ish. Scottish water or the council blocked a storm drain outside and about half a foot of water came in. They were playing the blame game and eventually my mother fixed it through her own insurance as it took out her...

All my windows are roughly 180cm tall and the widest is around 115cm, the rest around 85cm wide. They've definitely dropped and probably not worth heel and toe-ing for the same reason. Spent £100 on bubble gaskets for all the windows, may as well change them at this point. They feel a little...

I think they were installed in 2009 by the previous owner but I'm not positive. Probably could do with replacement as they are stupidly large for tilt and turn but I definitely cannot afford it at the moment. I've attached some thumbnails, should have done that in the OP, my apologies...

My flat has some pretty old tilt and turn Roto windows and they are all very draughty. I had CR Smith come in and adjust a lot of the hinges so they would open and close more smoothly but it didn't help the draught problem. I've been looking at the keeps and noticed they are screwed directly...

Sorry for the late reply, been a busy week. My house is around 120 years old and the doorway is original but the previous owner removed the door. I'm pretty sure the walls are brick on either side. I get what you mean but maybe it's my lack of knowledge with wood but I'd have concerns with...

I get you now, I'd prefer overkill (within reason) than risk cracking the doorframe and breaking the glass. What screws would you recommend? My only concern would be that the flange would tear out the 4x2 but I imagine it would be gradual and not sudden failure since I don't plan on swinging...

I think I understand what you mean but with my limited knowledge, the 4x2 is just a spacer. Would there be a significant twisting force on the 4x2 when the 100mm screws go through the flange and into the frame as well? I'm only 70kg and I don't intend to do any sudden or jerky moves on it for...

Will the 6x100 multipurpose screw be enough then or is a lag/coach screw recommended?

Each pipe flange is about 4mm thick with 4 screw holes per flange. 3 screws were going to be 6x100mm, which would go though the flange, 2x4, and into the doorframe. Only the 4th was a 6x50 lag screw, which would just barely go into the doorframe. I thought this was needed at the top of the...

Surprisingly, the search didn't bring up much for pullup bar. I'm more familiar with plumbing and metalwork than wood so I'm doubting myself here. Looking for some advice please. I got some iron pipe to diy a pullup bar as the doors in my tenement flat are too wide for the leverage style door...

I'm needing more storage in my house for the bulky items that are getting in the way at the moment. Suitcases, camping equipment, tools, and the like. I stay in an old tenement flat with high ceilings so I'm thinking about building a shelf in my office / storeroom. Added a sketch for what I...

it's working ok for now, but I would like to keep it that way long term. I'll add inhibitor and leave it alone for the time being then. I'll ask for a flush of the system from whomever I find to change the gas pipe when I get some more paychecks in.

What's done is done, cost is now irrelevant. According to the commissioning checklist, Gas Inlet Pressure is 17 mbar and 16 mbar at maximum rate. I think 20 mbar is the recommended for Vokera, so upgrading that pipe is another thing for the to do list. Still, I ask again. Is a mains water...

benchmark? The commissioning checklist has been filled in but I don't think it's worth the paper it's written on. Claims Fernox cleaner and inhibitor was used which I know for a fact wasn't. I know I got screwed but I'm not concerned about that, dwelling on it isn't going to get my money...

No need to be so aggressive mate, I paid £1500 and it's a Vokera Easiheat 25C and it took him a day to do it. He gave me the sales BS about how the filter is one of the best, solid brass, no leaks, blah blah blah. I got a sneaking suspicion it was whatever he had in his van, recycled from an...

Yeah, I removed the cover as I could hear occasional drips and wanted to check it wasn't leaking. Just condensate dripping into the boiler trap I think, don't see pooling water anywhere. The boiler was originally up at high level but the old flue core was only 100mm and the new flue was 110mm...

I just got a new boiler fitted a few weeks ago and I'm pretty certain the guy cut every corner possible. The system was not flushed, no cleaner or inhibitor was used and the core for the flue was eyeballed without a pilot hole drilled. The condensate drain goes into a PVC pipe that was...

Sorry for the late reply, just back from a last minute business trip. Yes, I think a very wide floor standing shelf (or a very tall narrow table) is a better description of what I'm trying to achieve than a mezzanine. I've even considered scaffolding but think it might look a bit unsightly (I...

I need some extra storage in my house and as I have high ceilings, I'm wondering if it would be possible to build a freestanding mezzanine out of wood? Freestanding because it's an old tenement building and I want to keep drilling into walls at a minimum (joist hangers are not really an...