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Hi - nope, problem not yet sorted but BG guy due tomorrow. Both the HW and CH pipes get hot (very) when motorised valve in mid-position. This morning at 6.30 - CH on since 6 but taking a while to warm up (but then it was minus 4 outside!), but no HW (but should have been on since 5.30). HW...

OK - I have the right pipe/valve now. What do I need to do to sort out the balancing? Out of interest, how does the balancing affect the boiler firing? I'd assumed the boiler was simply switched on/off on demand, but obviously it's a whole lot more complicated than that! Cheers

There's a valve on the pipe coming out of the bottom of the cylinder - is that the return?

Boiler is 18-year-old Glowworm Fuelsaver. Boiler stat is set to max (no numbers - just 0, then min-max). Turned HW on manually earlier - now piping hot. Just turned CH on manually, and seems fine. So it does seem that switching between them is a problem. But motorised valve looks to be...

OK - so at 8am this morning: central heating on (since 6am) and rads hot. HW should have been on 5.30-6.30 but water only just lukewarm. Roomstat set at 20 - had dropped to 19 so calling for heat, but boiler not firing. Made sure HW off at programmer, and cylinder stat turned down. Orange...

This morning, HW came on at 5.30 and partially heated up before CH came on at 6. Boiler then failed to fire until CH or HW switched off and on again. All working fine once that was done. So it does seem to be a boiler switching problem. Any ideas? Cheers

Hi Had British Gas in last week to powerflush system and fit TRVs to most rads. Also improved airing cupboard pipework, replaced pump and HW tank thermostat, so generally a long-overdue overhaul (pipework full of 18 years of sludge and lots of problems with HW). All seemed well for first...

Thanks for the advice. "Died" = circuit board in panel repeatedly blowing 1A fuses - advised uneconomic to repair by a local installer. 15 years in the back of the airing cupboard has finally taken it's toll :roll: (will relocate the replacement). Will also take a look at Galaxy panels...

I inherited a 15-year-old Galaxy 8 alarm system in my house, which has finally died. I just want a simple system, so I’m considering a DIY replacement with an Accenta Mini G4 panel/RKP (click here) with a Reson8 bellbox (click here). All 5 of the PIRs are already fairly new replacements...

I've just discovered a small leak in the supply pipe to my central heating header tank in the loft (looks like a failed soldered joint - must be about 18 yrs old). It will be tomorrow evening before I get chance to fix it. There's an isolating tap near the leak, so I can easily turn it off...

It's meant to be frost-free, although I did get some ice out of the freezer compartment. Looking at some other forums, it looks like it could be the thermistors, which have already been replaced twice (in 2004 and 2006). I'll see if I can track some down and replace them myself. Cheers

I have a Hotpoint fridge-freezer - model Mistral FF72. It has a little LCD display for the fridge and freezer temperature. The freezer is fine (-22, as normal), but the fridge is too warm (+14, instead of the normal +4). The unit is about 8 years old. We're shortly starting on a kitchen...

Thanks. It's a converted garage - now a living room - so it does need to look reasonable!

Sorry - should have been clearer - yes, it has the maker's plastic cover and is in good condition. All I want to do is hide it neatly, with a door on the front for access.

I have a consumer unit mounted high on a wall in a garage conversion. The previous owners covered it with a rough timber box that I want to replace with something neater. Are pre-formed consumer unit covers available for this purpose, or am I stuck with making my own? It's a 16-year old...

My shower mixer is connected to a power shower pump, and works well. But the little black plastic handle on the flow control ring (or whatever it’s called) has snapped off. It's the same as the handle on the temperature control ring, which you can see in this photo. I’m struggling to find...

Went ahead with the strobe plan in the end. * This strobe sits on top of a 3m pole, powered by this 12v adapter plugged into a socket in the adjacent shed, which is fed by the switched live from this standalone PIR. * This security light sits at about 2.5m up the pole (with the standalone...

No, I don't think it will scare anyone - but it will attract the intention of the interfering old bag across the field, who's enough to scare anyone (trust me). So I was just looking at ways to beef up the deterrent effect of a floodlight. Fair point about visibility - I'll have another think...

Thanks. Supply won't be a problem as the installation will be right next to my shed, which already has power (so just a minimum of exterior cable, which I'll run in suitable conduit). The transformer could easily be inside the shed to make things easier - but what I'm struggling with is the...

Hi I want to install a security light at the bottom of my garden, facing into the less-than-secure field next door. Ideally I'd like to install a standard security floodlight like this plus a blue strobe like this to try to scare the b*ggers away. I've installed plenty of security lights...