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I gather from your art work that you are suggesting me spending loads of money

:cry: why is going green always a load of trouble, that seems an awful lot of insulation,I would have to raise the floor at least 200mm to allow for condensation and as the roof is a low pitch roof now I would have to be a midget to walk around, surely there is an alternative.

Right my next problem is I am going to take advantage of the free loft insulation for pensioners and although they have quoted for the job I would like to keep my existing flooring for light storage. My joists are 100mm depth with 390mm between them, and at the moment there is only about 50mm of...

Ok it looks like the cheapest way is to wear a hard hat :) Thanks for everyones inputs

Thank you I :D only hope I dont split them taking them off as sure as eggs I will not be able to get any.

Great, I thought I would have to crawl under the unit and fiddle around there, but as you said one screw and its out. there are two large ring washers on the swan neck which need replacing, can you tell me where I would get them from

Thanks, just one more question on the roof structure. running through the center of the loft from the fire wall to the other end wall is a single 4x2 set into the wall at each end. It lays over the top of the Joists but apart from the inlet to the wall there is no fixing to any of the Joists...

Oh Ok, keep up the no smoking I can see it is doing wonders for your sense of humour :wink:

In this age of all this digital changeover wouldn't it be nice to have a forum to steer us oldies through all the technical jargon of buying which telly etc. :?

I have the kitchen mixer tap pictured below and have a problem with it leaking as you can see from picture from under the base and around the swivel only when either hot or cold tap is turned on, is this adjustable/repairable or is it doomed to the big tap heap in the sky

Well I think I have come to a conclusion with the information you have kindly given me. I believe that as we only use the main lighting for a short part of the evening for eating etc and the rest of the time when watching telly with a table lamp it would seem not a viable proposition spend £36...

well no I did not look at the packaging as this was in the early days of energy bulbs and looking at the price of the dimmer compatable it would cost me £36 :shock: to replace the standard bulb and it would seem sensible to use the original bulbs and dim them down which wouldn't be a lot of...

Sorry I meant to say rafters (Are these called purlings) _______________________________________________ Mod 3 - use the tab top right hand corner of your post next time you want to add onto your post :wink: Locked - your other post is here...

Excuse me butting in but I have the same query about moving these as I have trouble with banging the bonse on them. Is it not possible to relocate them further back along the joist in a more upright angle. I have added my pictures

I had this problem in my sons bedroom with the dimmer switch and have since replaced it with a standard switch, the reason I was asking is I have a 26 foot lounge with two chandeliers with three 40 watt bulbs in each and as there are now small energy saving bulbs on the market I just checking...

It would appear that after a couple of energy saving bulbs have blown when using the dimmer witch that they are not compatable, is thee a way round this or have I to get rid of the dimmer switch

Hello where have you gone. As you can see from the pictures these 4x2 slanted pieces (are they called pulings) are the ones causing the problem, can they be altered in any way

Oh by the way excuse the mess only I have not been up to put it all back and relay the floor after the plumbers installed the new boiler and removed all the old tanks etc. :roll: