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and yet you speak to any tile adhesive manufacturer in this country and not one (to my knowledge) will say you can tile directly on top of polypipe/similar products. 2 tile adhesive companies weber and tilemaster will specify the boards are levelled with a flexible leveller. just to add, this...

thats right, only been doing this for 22 years, what would in i know! (not on here for any other reason than to give advice) thats interesting, ive never seen that before, have you got a spec written to confirm this? (genuine question)

wood and tiles are natural bedfellows @foxhole youd be better off using a tile backer board such as no more ply or hardie backer. I dont think this will be a cheaper option that ply however, if you do go down that route, make sure you prime the underside and edges of the ply with neat primeplus...

had various debates with polypipe on this very subject, tiling onto polypipe..... you'll find most tilers wont tile directly onto it. theres two options that we give to our customers. lay a decoupling mat with an s2 adhesive, and fix tiles with the s2 adhesive, but my preferred way and one...

theres also a new(ish) ufh heating system on the market called Vario PRO, its a basically a decoupling matting that you fit a loose wire too, again, youd have to make sure floor was deflection free, but this is really catching on now, its a lot faster to install.

assuming that the ply is going down still i wouldnt have any problems in putting 10mm delta boards down then ufh then use a flexible screed over the heating. belt n braces i know.

you wont go wrong with either, used and sold them both, the beaver and genesis, shame your not in derbyshire area you could have popped in. The genesis trims will be a better price to the ones at T*pps.

yes, ive seen the tilers using the dural/ditra matting, tbh, the mosaic mesh is easy for you. once the mosaic is attached to the mosaic mesh, you can then cut the mosaic to size (assuming you or doing a border)

I personally would have used a tile backer board instead of the ply, however, whats done is done.........Definitely tank the ply, walls ect with a tanking solutions, using the tape in the kit of the joins, both on the floor and on the walls. I would then use an S2 tile adhesive, which would be...

the mosaic mesh is super sticky, so when your glass/metal mosaic is attached, it bonds really well. Id still use MM with these mosaics, IMHO you are using the correct adhesive. Dont forget to post a photo of the completed tiling ;)

You are better off using a thermal tile backer board in all honesty, like DeltaBoard/wedi/Marmox type. these will reflect the heat upwards, the cement ones like Hardie/NMP i wouldnt use with UFH. DeltaBoard comes in various thicknesses, 10mm min i would recommend for under UFH.

Using mosaics like these can be fiddly to fix, use mosaic mesh to stiffen the mosaics and make them easier to fix to the wall.

Keraquick is an S1 adhesive, so only suitable to be used if overboarding with Hardie/No More Ply. Tiling straight onto chipboard is not best practice, we would recommend either over boarding with no more ply/use an S2 adhesive like TileMaster Ultimate or a decoupling matting (dural/ditra matting)

i wouldnt advise fixing split faced on a kitchen wall, tiles can not be grouted for one, cleaning will be a nightmare too. theres plenty of split faced effect ceramic tiles that you will get a similar effect imho.

Hi David, cant comment with regards the wet UFH, but i know alot of our installers/fixers are liking the Vario Pro electric UFH. Basically its a cable that is installed over a decoupling matting, meaning your tiles will not crack and you also do not need to screed over, with flexible tile...

If in doubt, prime the walls is a general rule. You didn't say what adhesive you are going to use but one thing that is ABSOLUTELY DEFINITE - DO NOT USE PVA. Use a "proper" acrylic based tiling primer such as TileMaster PrimePlus or Weber PR360 PVA is not suitable for tiling for various...

Agree some polished porcelain tiles do, esp the lower end ones the sheds sell.

got to ask, why would you need to seal a porcelain tile?

As a rule we go by this when selling, something we got sent a good few years ago. Planometric Tolerences With the increasing popularity of large format wall and floor tile we wish to remind you that the tolerances allow for a 0.5% warpage in tile planarity. therefore the european norms allow...

Corners of a shower (or any corners) shouldnt be grouted, they should be silicone.