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Use a stand pipe like the sketch above. This is what I did with my boiler condensate discharge recently to stop the trap syphoning out.

99% of shower stuff is utter rubbish and massively overpriced. It's all shiny and looks great, but devoid of any technical or engineering design. The only I've found so far company that properly engineers their stuff is Grohe. The rest is just shiny s**t. It looks like you're missing a spigot...

I remember reading this before and it doesn't really make sense to me. When a device 'uses' more power it draws more current. There is no switching involved. I have never left the iBase powered solely off the boiler because I am not sure if its up to supplying the necessary current.

The iBase will work without the 5V supply, but I've never left it like this for long. I don't know what capability the boiler PCB has to supply the iBase. The PCB for the boiler is made by SIT Controls who are an Italian company. I don't know if they are part of the Remeha group. It...

I did and the boiler is not oversized.

22 was just a guess from memory. It's set to whatever it's suposed to be.

I don't see this as surprising really. The TPI control has to be based on the boiler output always being the same each time it cycles on. If the CH is cycling on so many times per hour for a given set of conditions then its no good the boiler varying what output its giving every time it comes...

Parameter 'p20' is the one that sets the start-up fan speed, but it's not supposed to be changed. It's not 22, but that was a guess from memory. The value changes for each size of boiler, but its never full speed.

Except that in the case of the Avanta range they don't. The start up fan speed is set to 22 against a max of 35.

Only from observing what the boiler does when it starts. One of the readouts available (t6?) shows the fan speed and 35 is the maximum. The boiler is setup to always start at '22' and it never goes directly to 35, but creeps there slowly. I assume it only goes to '35' if it can maintain the...

When I was looking into the iSense I came across various references to a 'gateway'. Here's one I've just found http://home.xmsnet.nl/openthermprotocol/.

Some of the Aristons are steel with a 'glass' (I assume enamel) lining. I would only fit a stainless one with a 25 yr guarantee and there are plenty of mfrs offering these.

Just one comment on this. Wiring in an outside sensor will allow the boiler to adjust CH water temp based on outside temp. This is based on the curve that can be adjusted with various parameters. But use a simple on/off programmable state and not one like the CM927 with TPI control (or turn it off).

I've been using an iSense RF with an Avanta 18S for about 6 months now and it works very well. Fit and forget really, although with the colder weather I will no doubt fiddle with the curve settings a bit more. I bought it from the Netherlands. It controls both CH and HW. The only negative is...

Wouldn't you apply a diversity factor in a similar way that would be done for sizing an electrical cable? I don't think ALL users would be on at the sametime.

Opening one tap will not give an accurate reading because the tap itself is too much of a restriction. If you have a few mains fed taps then open them all the same time. Whilst they are ALL running measure the flow from each using a bucket and a stopwatch. Add the total flow together. That's...

Before you commit to replacing the pipe into the house I suggest you get some proper measurements done. You need to establish the maximum flowrate that you can get down the pipe. The figure of 16l/min is very low and probably not correct. How was the 16l/min determined?

Just cut the bosses off. As long as you don't cut into the pipe it will make no difference.

Hi, sorry it's taken me a while to reply, but I've been away. The boiler and iSense RF have been working fine so far since February. Pretty much fit and forget. The iSense controls both HW and CH. I'm using a supply from Maplin to provide the 5V to the iSense. I also have the HW working off a...

I've just bought a Pura shower valve like the one shown here, but I'm now having second thoughts about fitting it. It seems to be poorly designed and leave a leak path through into the wall. The pictures below sum up the problem better. There is a simple metal to metal joint for part...