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The munsen rings are an option screwed onto battens fixed to the wall. I imagine that the unistrut option gives some more flexibility during installation because the clips can be adjusted along the channel.

I'm looking for recommendations of pipe clamp/clip 'systems' for fixing copper pipes to a wall. Somewhere previously I've seen a photo of an installation using what looked to me like a Unistrut based system. I can't find the photo now, but it looked tidy. A search on Google brings up a number...

Isn't this shutdown due to the boiler thermostat cutting in? Also I assume that any TRVs on radiators that influence the thermostat are set to max?

With an old boiler turning it on and off is the best you can get so I'm not sure it's fair to say it's cheap and nasty. I totally agree that it's not the right way to control a modulating boiler.

By changing the setting to 3 times an hour you have forced the control to be more coarse. How do you know that this isn't contributing to your problems? The boiler will still fire above the set point to prevent undershoot. I don't see that as a problem.

The amount of heat your CH needs to put out is equal to what is lost through the walls, etc. Too much heat and the house gets hotter and too little it gets colder. This is irrespective of what thermostat you've got. The CM927 has been made for years and prior to that was called the CM67. It's...

At the moment I have a CM927 with my 25yr old Glowworm and I want to get a modulating control with the new boiler. So at the moment all my options are open. I'm not sure that I follow you're comment on the ATAG control. Their equivalent is the WiZe, but it's not wireless.

Thanks, I've been looking at that and I hadn't spotted the list of parts. So in summary it looks as if I can buy a WC sensor and a DHW sensor in the UK and a RF ISense from the Netherlands. That will then give me all the functionality of the Vaillant system except that the WC sensor has to be...

I'm not sure that it is an Opentherm related query or not. I've scanned the section of the Avanta manual that shows the connections for terminal block X9 and copied it below. This makes reference to the 'outside sensor' and an option to have a 'DHW sensor'. The reference to 'red band' I assume...

The only TRV that needs to be on max is the one in the room that has the Stat in it. Others can be set as you want them. Unless you need the existing clock to control the HW I would get rid of it, but it doesn't really matter.

I've now found a somewhere in Holland that can sell me a wireless iSense: http://www.cv-sanitairkorting.nl/product_info.php?cPath=96_110&products_id=3119 As long as I specify the 'International' version I will get the option of English. It's also possible to buy a Remeha SmartPower adaptor...

To be honest I don't think your comparing like with like. I can't see how you could heat what you have described as a not particularly efficient house in conditions like we have now with only 4.6kW. And that figure doesn't account for other usage such as water, etc. The 6 units/day can't be...

6m3 equates to 66kW/hrs and you have the heating on for 10 hours. Assuming an old boiler at 70% efficiency then that's 4.6kW actually converted to heat the radiators.

Are you really comparing apples with apples when you say it's gone from 6 to 14? Is it the same temp outside? Has the on time crept up, etc. Look at the other way - if the 6 units per day is correct for the same conditions as we have now then you were only using 4.6kW to heat your house...

If you assume it's heating the house for 10 hours then the 20kW calculated heat loss becomes 14W. Your 26500 BTU equates to 8kW. So the difference has narrowed to 6kW. Things that might help bridge the gap are hot water usage, is it -1°C outside or actually a lot colder, is the 14 units day a...

It sounds as if you have your heating on around 7 hours a day and in that time you're saying you use 14m3 of gas. That equates to 558361kJ of energy. You use that energy over 7 hours, ie. 79766kJ/hr or 22kW of heat loss. If the boiler is 90% efficient then your using approx 20kW to heat your...

Are your unit figures in m3 or ft3 and are you reading the red or black figures on the meter. Also on a typical day in which you are using 14 units how long is the heating switched on for, eg. 5am on until 10pm would be 17 hours. With these figures and based on the fact the its currently very...

I think the answer to this lies in paragraph 1.30: "1.30 Stub stacks – A stub stack may be used if it connects into a ventilated discharge stack or into a ventilated drain not subject to surcharging and no connected water closet has a floor level more than 1.3m and no other branch into...

It's no good asking that question here and expecting any other answer than you need a new fitting / a qualified person needs to do the work. The right repair might be technically OK, but it would be an unorthodox repair method and therein lies the problem, whether it's good or not. It's...