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Thank you for the replies. This safeguard drygrip adhesive that I've used is extremely expensive and so doing continuous lines would have been very expensive. I understand fully reasons for doing it though. The adhesive is £14 for what is effectively a tube no bigger than what you'd fit in a...

Rethinking it I have anywhere between 15 and 25 spots on each board. The boards are solid to the wall now but with some bounce in places. What about if I drilled small holes into the bouncy areas and then pumped a load of stixall in behind to pack it out and stop the bounce?

Thanks for the reply. I used possibly 15 dits per 8x4 foot board. Perhaps each dot was 8 inches apart. My walls are quite uneven and so I think you are correct when you say some of the dots haven't stuck to both board and wall. For areas that are bouncy I am trying to pack out with stixall...

I have just dry lined my entire downstairs. All walls were stripped back to brick and I used a new safeguard drygrip adhesive to 'dot' n 'dab' plasterboards to the wall. I used this adhesive instead of usual dry wall adhesive to combat any damp patches coming through. The downside to using...

Thank you both. I think I'll mark the tiles out as you say and get the plasterers to go just past the line. Many thanks

I have plasterboarded my walls in the bathroom and I want to make the bottom half tiles and the too half plaster skim but I don't know which should be done first. I want the tiles to be directly applied to the board due to the weight. Do I tile first then plaster afterwards so they can...

Sorry to pick up on someone else's post but I have a similar situation if someone could be kind enough to help. I have a steel beam which sits in the ground floor ceiling/upstairs floor. The steel is actually in the void as the floor joist sit on and inside the steel. The steel is then...

I'm dot and dabbing a brick bay window. My concern is that when two boards meter at at 45 degree angle itl leave a large gap running down the joint. Is there a technique when dry lining angles. I don't think it would be possible to cut the plasterboard edge at a 45 degree angle

Yes I had watched that video, my beam is actually within the floor. It's the steel columns that run vertically as in the pic I'm trying to find a solution for. I guess I either build a wooden frame around it, I've briefly googled something about steel clips to create a frame around the...

I have a steel beam that is within my first floor structure. The beam is actually bolted to two steel posts. So the beam disent sit on the wall. The steel posts sit on pad stones on the ground. The beam itself is within the floor and the joist sit within it. The idea being that I get a flush...

Yes. There are defo two flues. I don't want to risk this so am thinking I should get a structural engineer in. Do you think?

I have a Victorian property with a chimney stack that runs through the middle of the house. Downstairs there is a room on each side of the chimney stack with a fireplace in each room. I want to put a wood burner in but wondered if it was possible or structural safe to knock through the back...

Thank you Tony I won't go with the VB then. Just celotex between the metal frame. Hopefully as it's tight to the wall and I'm using MR board along with a powerful extractor fan. I'm hoping with all the condensation in the walls won't be an issue

Sorry - didn't mean to offend. I certainly do not know everything and in fact have very little experience. I've just done lots if reading and so my thoughts above were based on that. I wasn't really sure on the VB that's all and was just looking for some extra input as I was reading...

I wanted to avoid cement boards such as hardiebacker as I've read they are awkward to cut and to fix, sometimes having to pre drill holes etc. My plan was to use gypsum MR plasterboard everywhere and then the gypsum TILEBACKER board that they produce (possibly similar to aqua panel but I...

Thank you for the reply. I know 25mm of insulation isn't a lot but I don't want to lose anymore floor space than I already am so although I know it will not reduce the U value much at least as you say it's better than nothing. In terms of the boards I've had MR boards and hardiebacker...

I'm thinking of using sheeps wool instead of insulation board as this will fill entire void and has properties that can absorb moisture and but disent allow it to set as condensation. So I understand insulation boards are not always so good on older solid wall properties as they don't allow...

I am going to be lining my bathroom walls with a 25mm metal wall lining system. The system has a track at the bottom that is fixed to the floor and a track at the top that fixes to the ceiling. The metal studs then fit between the tracks at 600 centers. The problem I have is that my ceiling...