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I'm looking to run some cable for some outdoor lighting to be installed at a later date. (Patio lighting) Will the following work ok as I'm going to run the cables myself and then get an electrician to wire them. Run 1.5mm T&E from fuse board to switch and then 4mm 3 core armoured from...

Can I ask what thoughts are in led down lights fittings pushed up and cut into celotex board?? I've read on celotex website that it is not advised due to the fitting acting as a bridge in which cold air meets hot, condenses and then drips out of light fitting. Any advice on fitting LEDs...

Thanks Andy, my only thought is that I'd wasting the other 140mm. Unless I use x2 lots of the 140mm strips that are left to put in another joist spacing. So this would be 280mm in a 260mm spacing but squeezing it in that little amount should be ok right?

My spacing between each joist is only 260mm and all the loft wool insulation I can find seems to come in either 400mm or 600mm wide strips. Has anyone comes across this problem and what is the solution?

Thank you. I like the idea of LEDs for energy savings etc. I'll use loft caps over the GU10 fittings then. Thanks again

Thank you very much for going the value calculations for me as I wasn't sure how to do these. Sounds as though my plan will be pretty good then and wil offer nearly if not the same insulation. I take your note on putting down the celotex first, I'll make sure I do that One more note if...

Ok, so celotex down first and them mineral wool on top. Do you know what is best to seal joints between joists and celotex? Also I plan to have led down lights so need to look at how to insulate around these. I'm planning to put 22 mm chip board on top too so this should help.

I want to insulate my loft , I have increased the height of the joists from 80mm to 140mm and thrown away all of old mineral wall as it was damp and not in great condition. I have fixed all damp issues now. So also want to board over joists for light storage using 22mm chip board. I...

I want to insulate my loft , I have increased the height of the joists from 80mm to 140mm and thrown away all of old mineral wall as it was damp and not in great condition. I have fixed all damp issues now. So also want to board over joists for light storage using 22mm chip board. I...

Sorry Fox hole. I meant to put 4x2 in OP. They are 4x2 which is knotched onto wall plate.

My concern is that where the 4x2 sits on the wall plate there is around 50% knotched out of the joists so the actually depth of what actually sits on the wall plate is only 2inch if that

I am looking to strengthen the ceiling joists in my loft space. Each joists is 6x2 and sits a wooden wall plate. I'm looking to secure an extra length of timber above the wall plate (I think called a ledger) and then fix joists hangers under the joists and into the newly installed timber which I...

Thank you Frank. I'll look I to this. My house is a 1890 Victorian house with soft bricks and 9 holes in each brick so they do crack easily when drilled into. That's my only concern

I am looking to strengthen the loft joists. They are 4x2 and run from gable end to a riff truss and then to a supporting wall half way across the room. Where the joists meet the roof truss in the center of the room I have used 38mm joist hangers. My question is how to support the joists at...

I have recently repointed my Victorian chimney with a new lime mortar, no cement. Although for the flaunching I did use a cement mortar. My question is what is the best brick sealer to use for the stack? I want to use as siloxane/silane sealer as these allow the bricks to breathe. But what brand...

Thanks Stuart, this was my initial concern. I guess if I use a cement lime sand mix it could be too hard and the brick could suffer or if I use a lime sand mix then the mortar might not last as long. Mmmmmm....... The bricks are known as a Cambridge white in this area and they have about...

Ok. I'll remove all pots and old flaunching, stuff rockwool down flues, re bed top few courses of brick if it's loose and then just repoint the rest. After that I'll remove rock wool, put liners down flues and them rebed pots with new flaunching. Sound like a good plan of attack?

Thanks Catlad, I'm going to move ahead with this first thing in the morning. I'll go with the sand:lime:cement mix and yes we plan to use two if the flues and I'll be putting down flexible liners at the same time. I'll just use a hammer and bolster chisel as you say to clear back remaining...

Yes I understand what you mean. Therefore do you think adding cement is advisable for the stack. X3 sand X1 lime X1 white cement.

I'm worried if I use a cement mortar on the stack then the mortar won't be able to breathe and moisture won't be able to evaporate so instead the bricks will remain damp and will deteriate quicker. What about using a stronger lime:sand mix so that there's no cement and the mortar can breathe...