Outdoor lighting?

[liam546]

I'm looking to run some cable for some outdoor lighting to be installed at a later date. (Patio lighting)

Will the following work ok as I'm going to run the cables myself and then get an electrician to wire them.

Run 1.5mm T&E from fuse board to switch and then 4mm 3 core armoured from switch (located indoors) to a adapter box outside where I will terminate it until I'm ready run further cables from the adapter box for the outdoor lighting.

I would then like to also run a 1mm 3 core cable from the switch (indoors) to a second location indoors so that I can effectively operate the adapter box (outdoor lights) from 2 switches.

Can anyone see any issues or advise before I go buying and running cables?

 

[flameport]

I'm going to run the cables myself and then get an electrician to wire them.

That will only work if the electrician is involved from the start.
Installing cables and then looking for someone to connect them later will not work.

Circuits should have the same size cable throughout - using three different sizes is confusing and unnecessary.

 

[liam546]

Thanks fit such a quick reply. I know an electrician fairly well who has agreed to sign things off but I don't want to keep bothering him too much. He said run the cables and he'll come and sign them off.

In regards to having different size cables I didn't want to have armoured inside the house as it is quite chunky so how about if I use 1-5mm T&E and 3 core to the switches (inside) and then the 4mm armoured cable from switch to outside adapter box.

I can wire the switches but is like to ask the electrician to wire the armoured cable to the adapter box (outside) and the T&E 1.5mm to the fuse board.

Should this present any problems?

 

[Robin0577]

What's the problem with using 1.5mm2 armoured?

 

[liam546]

Good question??? I was just advised to use at least 4mm

Do you need a higher mm if you are going longer distances? ....it's perhaps a 25 meter stretch.

 

[efficiencyman]

YOUR QUOTE Run 1.5mm T&E from fuse board to switch and then 4mm 3 core armoured from switch (located indoors) to a adapter box outside where I will terminate it until I'm ready run further cables from the adapter box for the outdoor lighting.
END OF QUOTE

Why are you requiring 4mm if only supplying lights (what total load ) ?

Why not run 4mm SWA (if you need later expansion ) to an outside IP 56 distribution box directly from an RCBO at the Consumer Unit ?
You may not want to bother with 2way switching or the extra cables and fit a radio switching unit in it controlled by as many pocket fobs as you wish, ( just an idea for you ) not as expensive as you may think, I have installed several all customers happy and cost effective.
PS fit an extra large Dist. Box -- many outside items now need ELV transformers.

 

[liam546]

Thanks again for your advice.

I'm no electrician and am just trying to learn as I like challenge and would like to so as much of this as I can before calling in an electrician at final stages to check and sign off.

Is there a difference between normal armoured cable and SWA cable or are these the same thing?

I've looked at running the remote option instead of switches to operate lights but I think id end up anyways searching for the remote control so would prefer a simple switch.

I want to just run something to a distribution or adapter box so that when I'm ready I can run cables from this box for some simple patio lights etc....I don't know why I would need 4mm armoured but it was what was suggested for the 25m stretch. I assumed 4mm was suggested because if the distance and because I'd then have an option to run more things off it if I wanted to.

 

[liam546]

I've looked into these radio switching units and as you say they mostly seem to come with fobs....so perhaps I wouldn't always lose the remote if it was a fob on my key ring.....although I would a always have to have my keys on me which I don't and my partner too.....am I understanding this correctly?

What do customers usually control from these boxes other than a bit of external patio lighting?

 

[efficiencyman]

Thanks again for your advice.

I'm no electrician and am just trying to learn as I like challenge and would like to so as much of this as I can before calling in an electrician at final stages to check and sign off.

Is there a difference between normal armoured cable and SWA cable or are these the same thing?

I've looked at running the remote option instead of switches to operate lights but I think id end up anyways searching for the remote control so would prefer a simple switch.
I want to just run something to a distribution or adapter box so that when I'm ready I can run cables from this box for some simple patio lights etc....I don't know why I would need 4mm armoured but it was what was suggested for the 25m stretch. I assumed 4mm was suggested because if the distance and because I'd then have an option to run more things off it if I wanted to.

SWA stands for Steel Wire Armoured --- same thing.
If only 1 switch required, a 20amp isolator could be used to terminate the SWA that being fed by 4mm T&E from RCBO in CU

A 25M stretch may need 4mm depending load volt drop etc. but that would also need to be wired back to RCBO in CU with 4mm cable, i.e. No 1.5mm 2 way direct switching. I would still consider Radio switching the fobs can be fixed as they are quite cheap now & so convienent, Cable prices have risen alot.

 

[liam546]

Ok so 4mm SWA from fuse box to radio switching unit, no switches

Then fix this unit into a distribution/adapter box which needs to be quite large to house the radio switching unit.

What do people use other than outdoor patio lighting to run off these radio units? ....and do you have any units and distribution boxes you can recommend?

I really appreciate all your help by the way

 

[efficiencyman]

Liam Quote;-- What do customers usually control from these boxes other than a bit of external patio lighting?

That question is almost endless, how deep is your pocket & imagination ?
From walk way lights. Man sheds, Hobby rooms, Railways, fish houses, ponds, fountains, waterfalls, filter systems, tree house lights, Pest deterrents, Christmas lights, Driveways, house names & numbers, floodlights, focus features, etc. etc.

 

[liam546]

I am also needing to run 6mm 3 core SWA cable from CU to the my shed as I want power here. This is at the bottom of my garden and about 40 meters away.

This would mean I'd have two seperate circuits and two SWA cables running from my CU to the outside. Is there anyway I can just have one SWA cable running from CU to the outside but still have power to shed at bottom of garden and have power to distribution box for patio lighting at a later date?

 

[efficiencyman]

Hi Liam I have used these, SEIP modules very reliable, good range, options to suit your needs, how many sw. circuits do you need ?
http://www.garage-door-automation.co.uk/seip-modules.htm#pcb

 

[liam546]

All I'm after in power to shed 40 meters away and power for lighting 15m from CU by patio at front of back garden.

Instead of running x2 SWA cables from CU (1 for each) could I not run 6mm SWA cable from CU to distribution/ adapter box and then From the box run 6mm SWA down to shed and then another lot of cable from box to do the patio lights.

With thr radio switching unit in the distribution box could I have seperate remotes. One to operate the shed lighting and another for patio?

Hopefully you know what I'm after so if you could give me your final advice on the best set up I'll go with that. Many thanks

 

[efficiencyman]

Now you have put a spanner in the works, chat to your local sparks & show him this thread so far.
I prefer 2 separate supplies depending on the reliability you require, may be more. I have often been called out to supplies tripped off, burnt out, damaged cables, etc. etc. If there is likely to be a need for a 24 hour reliable supply to your workshop, fish house etc. then do not rely on only ONE cable, sooner or later it will trip off possibly losing all stock I have come across this on several occasions now. Ascertain your total load then double it, for future additions, then share the loads over at least 2 cables, then when 1 goes off you don`t loose everything.
This may sound strange but since RCD`s can trip so easy (and go wrong) I have known of many disasters (not of my making) that have cost thousands in losses of livestock etc.
This unit may be what want ;--
http://www.garage-door-remotes.co.uk/seip-ekr4sp433-receiver.htm