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On my build it was 150mm min on both back door and french door lintels.

Big thank you again woody, I'll have a search for the post, I think I found one similar where the screed was cracking near the door and they took a layer of brick off.

This picture shows what I mean.

Thanks Woody, I also trying to work out how to finish screed in upto the french doors and back door as the inner skin is pretty much the same level as the outer with a insulated cavity filler covering the void only leaving enough room for a 5 to 10 mm of screeding, will have the same issues...

Am about to lay my 1200 gauge dpm on my block and beam floor and wondered how I finish off the corners of the room, I saw one post where it said you should cut it in to the corner and tape it up then fit insulation. Is this correct and if so what tape is best? Also do you tape up insulation...

I am looking for a good straight edge for screeding and dot and dabbing, I see on Amazon the sell a REFINA 2.5 Heavy Duty Straight Edge for around £52. Trying to find a good straight bit of timber probably a royal pain. Anyone know of a better place to purchase one or a better option. Many...

Looking good, I am also going too be taping the joints, watched loads of youtube videos :sneaky:, save the money on a complete plaster job, If it turns out bad then I will skim the whole thing. In other countries they lay there boards long ways so was unsure if I should leave the tapered edge...

True, think B&Q are £24 for a 10Ltr dulux white or £42 for Dulux trade white, bought some this week as it was closest place to go, problem with living in the sticks :D

If you have a Brewers decorating center near you then this paint is great and cheaper than crown even though it is a sister company https://www.brewers.co.uk/product/AA0127002D

If the problem has been solved and has been allowed to dry out completely and the affected plasters removed you should be able to patch plaster the area, might be worth applying a bit of pva to make sure you get a good bond repaint with the mist coat then a couple of top coats, in regards to...

Think I will run a bit of the 100mm rockwool I have left in there so it meets the cavity insulation and level with the roof insulation.

Same here, saved around 3k doing a lot myself :cool: just need more hours in the day.

Looks great, I do like them wood effect floor tiles, may be a option I will look into.

Depth depends on soil type, trees near by and stuff. Mine had to be 1.7 meters deep and 600mm wide as we are clay and had a tree close by :mad:

if there is enough access you could hire a mini dumper truck and use that :cool:

according to a website it says there are 25 builders wheel barrows full to move 1.0 metres of concrete times that by 10 :eek: going to take you a while if you don't collapse with exhaustion first :sleep:

The rafters are 195mm and the cavity wall is a 100mm with rockwool and the ceiling will be vaulted, its a non vented roof and in my specs it does not tell me if its a full or part fill, but they did mention using 165mm insulation so I guess a part fill is ok.

The only battens fitted at present on the joists were for the roof tile. Most of the top of that wall is made up of the steel lintels as I can fell the top of them and the gaps that i can put my had in i can feel the rockwool insulation but it does need topping up.

I have no idea what the black Indian ink would do to the paint so you could always try a bit in a pot and see what it does, as I said I have used a few coats of cheap water based varnish in the past, if you pop in to your local trade paint shop they may be able to advise you the better option...

yea, I have used a cheap normal water based varnish before in the past that seemed to work OK, but if you need a more washable fininsh then may be easier just to use anothjer type of paint altogether in the colour mixed.