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I see what you mean now. Is it ok to use the earth as a switched live? I thought that was bad practice.

Mogget, you are correct. I switched to pumped mode and everything works as normal. Will try to find am affordable TP9000 now. Thanks for your help. I'll try to port some photos tomorrow.

I know it is twin + earth cable. Are there any 2 wire thermostats which don't need a battery?

mogget, This is the diagram I drew when I last looked at my central heating wiring:

I dont have one yet, am just shopping around.. I have a twin and earth cable to the stat location currently

Can not remember the colours, but it is a 2 port fully motorised zone value.

How long should i expect the batteries in a 2 wire thermostat to last. I am considering the Danfoss RET B.

The heatmiser prt/hwts does not support a remote sensor. As the controller is located in the kitchen this makes it a no go.

not sure of the correct terminology, so please forgive me if I get it wrong. The pump is connected directly to the pump - the pump runs whenever the boiler is on and for a short whole afterwards. Whenever the boiler switches on is starts to heat the water in the tank in the airing cupboard...

I had thought about that, but the feature we really wished the controller to have was to extent the current temperature for an hour or two. Eg. In the evening after the heating temp had been turned down, we sometimes turned the temp back up again. The heating then stayed on until the next timer...

I have a Danfoss TP9 programmable thermostat with remote probe and DHW control. It is starting to fail and I want a replacement. I have looked at the new TP9000 and unfortunately this does not support the gravity option which I will need until I can afford to have my fully motorised zone...

Without stating the obvious: It is warmer this week than it was 2/3 weeks ago. The light only failed this week - maybe it does not like the warm weather.

I swapped the tube earlier today with one in an identical fitting in the loft. The problem still occurs in the shed whereas the loft works fine. I guess the fitting is at fault then :(

The tube is no older than 2 years, I'll give it a go replacing it.

I have a 5” fluorescent light installed in my shed, it has an electronic ballast. Last night I was out in my shed and the light suddenly went off. I flicked the switch off then on and it came back on – this then happened a further 4 times. I noticed that the longer I left it off for, the longer...

Taylortwocities: You say I should test the RCD before I call the LABC back, how should I do this? He tested it by plugging a test meter into a socket in the kitchen, so no it was not tested in isolation. How would you test one?

Damn, I must read my posts back before pressing the submit button. rebuke, you are indeed correct. It failed at 33mA NOT 33ms. The first time he tested it it would not trip at all. He wiggle the level a bit and got the 33mA trip. I'll try and get a photo of my CU tonight. I thought I had...

All is better now. I think my original attempt must have a made the thread cleaner as it all went smoothly with lots of PTFE. Do drips for the last couple of days so I am a happy man. Thanks for the advice.

I have rewired my house fully with the exception of the consumer unit which was replaced 3 years ago. Friday was my second LABC visit for a final inspection and sign-off. He checked the main earth, earthing via gas and water pipes, earth on ring final circuits and RCD disconnect values...

I think I was a bit frugal with the PTFE, I only put 2-3 turns on. I have put loads on this time, as you said just enough to bite the thread in the radiator. No drips yet, but will have to wait until the morning to be sure. Thanks Riko99