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After reading some horror stories on this forum about working with Part P and LABCs, I wanted to show that its not always bad.

I am in the process or rewiring my house. I am doing this as DIY under a building notice with the LABC. I had to pay about £70 upfront and give 24 hours notice to start. No plans, no diagrams, just a form on which I had to write 'electrical alterations' in addition to my name, address, etc...

I have installed 15m of 6mm2 SWA cable from my house CU to the shed. In the shed I plan to have a CU with an RCB and 2 x MCB, one for lights (6A) and one for a double socket (16A). I intend to connect the SWA to the non-RCD side of the CU in the house. QUESTION: What size MCB should I...

Now why didn't I think of that?? At least the concept is OK.

I have a 10mm2 from the CU to a 45A switch in the wall near to cooker. Behind the cooker is a cable outlet plate. At the CU the cable was not terminated when the CU was replaced, however there is a spare 'way' available for an MCB. This was discussed with the spark who installed the CU. I...

Many thanks to everyone who helped with this issue. I wired everything up as shown in diagram 2 last night and is works! I have a tank of lovely hot water this morning without heating the whole house...

pannierstan, Thaks for the info. I take your point about the water being hot in winter, we have been OK with it for the last 6 months though. I think the stat on the boiler in about halfway, so the water is OK and rads are not as hot as they could be - this is not a bad thing when you have a 16...

Which of these diagrams would be the preferred way to wire my central heating? Option 1 Option 2 I am fully aware that this solution will not give me independent control of the hot water. I am doing this as currently the TP9 controller works wonderfully with the central...

How is that different to the orange wire then?

kevplumb, Do you mean live when valve open, not live when valve shut?

The blue wire is neutral, what is the orange one for?

Hello, I have this Satchwell valve installed in my CH system. Yes, I know its old, but it works and I have no need to replace it - hopefully!! I am trying to work out the wiring on the valve. I assume two of the wires operate the spring return valve(?) and the other two are a switch which...

thanks for the input... but is it bad to physically have 2/3 1.5mm2 cables wired into the same MCB?

Will try a pic later. Current CU is a SquareD split board, layout is: RCD side 32A - Kitchen sockets 32A - Downstairs sockets 32A - Upstairs sockets 40A - Shower Non-RCD side 6A - Intruder alarm 6A - central heating 6A - upstairs lights (inc smoke alarms) 6A - downstairs lights...

Each of my 6A MCB breakers in my CU have two live wires (1.5mm2) cabled into them: Upstairs: Lights and Smoke alarms Downstairs: Lights and outside lights. I want to have a door bell transformer installed, cable installs and available space mean the transformer will be installed about...

When replacing the light switch and double socket in my wooden shed, am I required to use waterproof units or can I use 'normal' white ones?

Stem: With only one valve, the TP9 is set to 'linked'. The HW will never switch off while the CH output is on. I know there is a good argument for getting another valve fitted, however I cannot afford that right now.

Thanks for pointing this out, I now see exactly what you mean about backfed. Problem is that I do not have a perm. live in my connection box. If I used the HW output rather than the CH one, would this work? eg.

The actual room stat is a remote unit from the TP9 controller unit, they are wired together using 1mm2 T+E cable

OK, point taken. Given that its spring, I hope to run without CH for much of the time but we still need hot water. If I wire up as I have shown, will I be able to have regular hot water and occasional CH until it gets colder later in the year (and I have enough money to employ a plumber...