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A friend of mine was done for doing 74mph, amazing that the police bothered since there are so many people that do 90+ and cause a real danger to others.

A relay on each water heater would do this. The coil of the relay would be energised when the heating element is powered up. A normally closed contact on the relay in water heater 1 would disconnect the power to water heater 2 and vica-versa.

Someone turning up late for work on monday :wink:

To add a bit more information this happened 'out in the sticks' where there were no houses so using the lights/siren would not have affected members of the public. It didn't seem that he was hell bent on getting somewhere fast since when we got to the 50mph limit he slowed to 60...the speed...

This is good to know, thanks.

mmm c h i p s. :P

...should they have a siren/flashing light to warn other road users? The reason I ask is, coming home the other week at midnight on a 70mph dual carriageway another car raced up behind me doing what looked like 90+. We both then slowed down for the 50mph safety area, he slowed down to 60...

I used to know one naive apprentice ( I was an apprentice at the time too but had only done just over a year compared to his three years ). Anyway in the toolshop there was a large guillotine which had a variable resistance starter. Basically this was a bunch of resistors in oil and a handle...

I assume the button is to let people in, this type of latch is usually used on a door with a handle inside ( to let people out ) and nothing ( or a code entry keypad ) outside. Even so you might want to put a timer in the circuit so that when you press the button the lock is energised for a...

I assume its this one then http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Standard-Yale-Type-Lock-Release-for-Door-Entry-System_W0QQitemZ360033808227QQcmdZViewItem in which case it only has a tiny solenoid inside. I would be tempted to get a regulated DC supply simply to keep things nice and tidy. If you are a dab...

DC, so you will need to rectify the transformed voltage too. A small regulated power supply will be best, how many mA does the lock require?

Better safe than sorry, at least you will have peace of mind plus it'll look nicer :wink:

Using 2.5mm T&E and assuming the cable run is 40metres the maximum amount of current you could supply (dependant on installation method) would be about 12.6 amps or 2.9kW. 4mm T&E would give you about 20.8 amps or 4.8kW. I plan on doing a similar job myself soon but I will opt for a 40A...

If it is static then it is down to the flooring type and/or what you wear or even the type of material the seat is made from.

Here's some bumf... http://content.honeywell.com/uk/homes/Catalogue/Heating%20Controls/2.17%20T6360.pdf From what you have written I can't see how it works, you shouldn't get anything on 4 if there's no live on 1. Details I found were for the 6360'B'...wonder if that makes a difference...

110V uses a centre tapped transformer which means that the maximum p.d. to earth is only 55V compared with 240V.

Could be a faulty shower unit, or some water could have got into the unit. That 20A DP switch is rather under-rated , 10.5kW/230V=45.65A

Your eyes will also thank you for HF lighting, they have to work much harder with normal fluorescent lights.

I would have a look up in the attic and see if you have a leaky roof.

If you want a fluorescent tube in the bathroom it will have to be in a sealed unit...not too keen on that type of light except for kitchens or sheds myself :D