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The bath is out... I've measured it and it's definitely 1695mm :shock:

I'm looking to replace my bath with a deeper one. The bath needs to be the same size as my existing bath as there's walls at both ends... here in lies the problem! My current bath is 1695mm in length.... every bath I've seen is 1700mm, seems it's a standard size but obviously this...

I've been thinking about how to make the bathroom in my new attic flat bigger. All the rooms as you can see are large and I feel that the bathroom is the only letdown in the flat.... it's so small! I've removed the bath as I was planning fitting a deeper one and also I damaged some...

It actually feels pretty firm really, I'll just stick with this then I think... One more thing... I'm going to order your flooring guide as soon as I get paid but you may be able to help me with one thing. I really don't like the look of beading round the skirtings but my skirtings...

Thanks for the reply. Well one thing I can thank Barratt for is that the concrete floors in my flat are very very flat. when you say a "good quality" 3mm underlayment how can I tell? I got free underlayment with the boards, it's foam, 3mm with a thin DPM? I've paid £90 for each box...

Of course not, i'm extremely grateful for the advice! :) How would one go about using one of those nosing cutters though? Is the part placed within a router??

Now I see what you mean, yeah, thanks. I'm looking to do this myself, the one board for the whole tread seemed like it would be much simpler to do but obviously cost is a factor with the wider boards. The other reason for not laying the engineered boards that I already have is that everywhere...

Thanks again. Why have the nosing seperate from the 2 boards on the tread? I was thinking if the tread is 250mm (including existing bullnose overhang) having 2 x 125mm boards with T&G on one side of each and one of them with the bullnose front too? Does that make sense? I assume a woodshop...

Thanks for the reply, much appreciated. :) It's ply I think... here's a pic.

Thanks for the reply. I like the idea of just the oak tread with the white riser and strings plus this will obviously cost FAR less! It's a new flat and pretty modern inside, I don't think a full oak staircase would look right along with the oak engineered flooring it would be too much...

Anyone else in the know?

Hi there, you are the authority when it comes to solid/engineered flooring and I would appreciate your opinion on some engineered boards I've just bought. I've bought the following flooring, It's only 10mm thick with a 2.5mm real wood layer and is single plank with a satin laquered finish...

Not a problem, the rise will be same as will depth of tread. So... anyone think this is a doable option? Would a timber yard be able to put a bullnose finish on timber I order?

Hello, I've recently bought an attic flat. I have a small hall just in the front door, then a staircase up to the flat with a larger hall at the top that all the rooms come off. Everything is currently carpeted and I've bought engineered wood boards that I'd like to lay in both halls to...

Surely if the existing shower in my ensuite is also a mixer then there would be no problem? By the way there's a temprature control knob under the bath that stops the water getting too hot already.

So all in all a very cheap and simple DIY job to add myself a second shower? Fantastic! :D Also good that I've found the mixer tap/shower unit that matches my current bath and sink taps for under £80! Bristan is the make... pretty cheap but I like the look, quite modern looking...

Hi all, Just looking for some advice. I'm looking to rent out my spare room in my new flat. Unfortunately the only shower is in my en-suite. The flat is electric only and I have an immersion tank hot water system that heats up overnight. I'd presume the cold water ccomes directly from the...

I'm more thinking about all the other sockets/switches in my new flat that are also not flush... I'll be replacing all the faceplates at some point with the really flat ones and I'd want them to be perfectly flush. They are deformed too, like they have been forced into the hole and slightly...

But there's no brickwork, it's a new flat with plaster/timber walls & the boxes are screwed directly on a a timber stud? I think the current boxes are 47mm deep, if I swap them for 35mm ones it should do the trick? Is this the right thing to do?

Hi all, looking for some adivce. I'm tiling my splashback in the kitchen of my new build flat this weekend, I've removed all the socket facings to I can tile and also as I'm replacing them for metal ones. The thing is.. every one of the metal cages that sit in the wall are protruding...