Questions for WoodYouLike or others "in the know"

[Muzza80]

Hi there, you are the authority when it comes to solid/engineered flooring and I would appreciate your opinion on some engineered boards I've just bought. I've bought the following flooring, It's only 10mm thick with a 2.5mm real wood layer and is single plank with a satin laquered finish.

http://www.flooringsupplies.co.uk/r...ng/5587/natura_oak_boston_european_collection

I plan laying this in my downstairs & upstairs hall & lounge. I hear you talking about "bedroom quality" "wood veneer" and such, just wanted your opinion on this flooring given that halls are going to be high use areas.
I got it pretty cheap and on 0% finance which obviously was a big selling point however I'll return it if it's not up to the job or is regarded as being "cheap rubbish", it's only after finding this site that I've been learning a little about quality of engineered boards.... the stuff was already ordered

Also, as far as underlay goes... I'm laying it on to concrete, it came with some very cheap looking 3mm foam underlay with a DPM, would I benifit from buying sonic gold 5mm underlay? Or something else? I'm worried about it feeling very flexible underfoot being such a thin board...


Any advice really really appreciated.

 

[WoodYouLike]

The information on the online site does not really say what the backing is - do you know?

 

[Muzza80]

Thanks for the reply, much appreciated.

It's ply I think... here's a pic.

 

[WoodYouLike]

Not as soft as pine then. Pine is more suitable and stronger for standard wood-engineered boards (15mm thick) than when used for 10mm thick.

The main thing here, with a thinner board, is to make sure your underfloor is really as level as possible. A thin board has more "flex" and will bounce easier than a thicker board when installed on a not so level underfloor.
Thicker underlayment will not help solve this, it could even make it worse - turning your floor into a "spring" floor.

If your floor is level, then using a 3mm good quality underlayment is better than a 5mm underlayment with these thinner boards.

Hope this helps

 

[Muzza80]

Thanks for the reply.

Well one thing I can thank Barratt for is that the concrete floors in my flat are very very flat. when you say a "good quality" 3mm underlayment how can I tell? I got free underlayment with the boards, it's foam, 3mm with a thin DPM?

I've paid £90 for each box containing 3.6 m2, they are all long lengths and single plank... do you think this is a reasonable price?

Would I be better off returning it and buying something thicker?

 

[WoodYouLike]

The price sounds reasonable for a lacquered finish.

As for quality of the underlayment, does it feel "firm" or does it look like it can crumble any time soon? If the latter, spent a little extra on a more firm but not too thick underlayment. (You could ask to swap the free stuff and pay a little for a higher standard?)

 

[Muzza80]

It actually feels pretty firm really, I'll just stick with this then I think...

One more thing... I'm going to order your flooring guide as soon as I get paid but you may be able to help me with one thing.

I really don't like the look of beading round the skirtings but my skirtings seem to have been bonded on not nailed and I suspect taking them off will really damage the plasterboard.

I've been to a tool hire place and can hire an undercut saw for the weekend for £40... if I undercut all the skirtings and door jambs etc how would I go about laying the flooring exactly? One side would be fine as I can slide it under but what about when I reach the other side of the hall, I cant see how I can cut the last board and get it under the skirting without removing it? Even with the gap cut underneath?

Any ideas?

 

[WoodYouLike]

That could work indeed, although we have flat beading instead of the normal scotias/quandrants that looks like kind of a picture frame around the floor (and is pinned to the wood floor, not to the skirting). Once our clients see the beading they love it and don't have the hassle of removing the skirtingboards nor have "ugly" scotias.

The method of how to tackle the last row for your solution (under cutting the skirtingboards) is explained in the book as one of the tricks of the trade. (Sliding the last row in before the one before last is installed)

 

[mac391]

Not as soft as pine then. Pine is more suitable and stronger for standard wood-engineered boards (15mm thick) than when used for 10mm thick.

Most engineered boards have an inner constructed of "spruce" which is of course part of the pine family...