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shouldn`t pose a problem as long as you keep the wires the same they`ll either be switched via a junction box or via the ceiling rose`s if it`s a junction box you`ll have less wires in the ceiling rose and it will be simpler to check un-screw the ceiling rose and investigate take a...

ignore the colours as whom ever wired it up hasn`t used a junction box hence the neutrals being in the connector the brown wire is only feeding the second swictch power to enable the switching of second light! :shock: :shock: you wont need the small length of brown wire so remove on the...

the brown fly lead i`d asume was just to give power to second switch?

obviously the S.E. & B.C. have the final say but i can`t see a problem with the r s j sitting on the concrete lintel above the door once it`s been lowered one other thing i dont think it`s an r s j you have at the moment maybe a box steel or a piece of railway track i`ve came accross both...

i take it the white line is the intended door? as noseall as pointed out i do think headroom may be an issue! :? is the main bathroom above your kitchen to the left at the top of the stairs if so then your soil pipe probably runs down your side wall not far from your proposed new...

can`t see why you`d want rid of such a nice pillar hee hee! :lol: if you remove the lintel from above the door leave a hole so r s j can be moved into place easier obviously taking the load with acro`s and scaffhold boards with a few spare to jack the new r s j into place a magnetic spirit...

sounds plausible a picture always helps :shock:

so you`ll need acro props and scaffhold boards to support the load of the floors above has the structural engineer calculated for the r s j or lintel required?

most night latches are able to be fitted either way left or right some i`ve fitted depend on the position of the key in the lock or in your case the handle when the latch is attached to the door have you got the model number for your current lock or a picture as i`m quite certain you need to...

check the walls to see if they are supporting before knocking anything or it might be more than a wall coming down good luck ! get all your services in first gas water electric then your flooring.

I don`t know much about flat roofs but my grandad got me to paint his flat roof about ten years ago with solar reflective paint the flat roof is over 40yrs old and he reckons he`s never had a problem and swears by the paint he built his house himself in the fifty`s so it could be even older...

http://www.screwfix.com/cats/100139/Heating-Cooling/Ducting the link is for the ducting page at screwfix the range i described is the bottom 8 products easy to fit together and cut to size I hope this is of some help and you should have several solutions now you can fit your extractor...

Badger - you might like to consider stopping your upstands either side of the range and filling the gap with your splashbacks (bottom edge just below the top surface of the cooker). Symptoms thank you :D for your input appreciated the worktop is being delivered towards the end of the month...

thank you jeepman :D i`m familiar with mapei products and i`ll use there hydraulic cement have you used any of the others mainly the additives for rendering as a membrane is not practical in my situation?

yes that would work. would be better to extract at the highest point possible or use ducting with the fan on the wall below the window you can get super slim ducting channel 225mm x 25mm you could place this behind plasterboard on the ceiling running down to the wall or as i`ve used it before...

i agree it is quite a chunk although if fitted prior to tiling not quite so bad as for going cruddy clean with vinigar looks like new as with all bathroom plastic and glass

is the lead punctured or just come loose?

i would install a fan with over run timer your only proplem will be getting it outside via ducting as i assume you have a house either side i`m pretty sure but check building regs require an extractor for ventelation

the dunlop shower kit is a waterproofer you paint on prior to tiling not a tanking kit the teleseal strip is a telescopic seal in 2 parts one attaches to wall other to bath as there is movement when you fill a bath with water and get in these seals are the dog b*****ks and will last longer...

the green should be connected to the box`s earth terminal