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my guess is that you tiles are also too heavy for a skimmed surface. They are almost certain to weigh more than 16kg m2. So you may have heavy tiles fixed with the wrong adhesive, onto a surface that doesn't support the weight. The gamble for you is that they may well be fine and stay...

not sure i'd be happy fixing it like that, sounds expensive and wont allow you to allow for any fluctuations in the block wall surface

as in skimmed plaster ?

JC is dead right, whats the surface he's fixing to? and what is the tubbed adhesive brand\actual product? Its not something you should put up with from a tiler, but we do (against our advice) sometimes get customers buying r/m addy for big tiles and sometimes they get away with it. Its not...

its a lot of work and you will get inaccuracies. IF you are going to consider it, go and hire a good, overhead watercooled cutter with a guage.

oh i see. Some swear by vinyl, karndean in particular is well thought of.

do you mean alternatives to tiles? or alternative to the panel?

the tiles are johnsons harmony (beige i believe) - now discontinued. The stuff over the top is self levelling compound. if your laying tiles, then i'd suggest taking the lot up.

Sorry! not to my knowledge.

no, dont skim. the tanking will be better onto primed board. You'll get a primer in the kit. DONT ever use pva :-)

it needs grouting - no choice there. on a worktop it should be an epoxy grout too. Just how tight are the joints?

cutting around the end panels isnt an issue. price is more difficult. depends what your laying and what the jobs like. over here in the midlands a typical prices is 25m2 as a very rough guide.

sorry, should have said. it would usually be cheaper, but be careful how much work is introduced by replacing the skirting. it can do a lot of damage and cost ££

If the existing tiles are solid, then yes it will be fine. Many frown on tiling over tiles but its far less of an issue on the floor. If you can live with the step, then you needn't worry. Make sure a good quality, flexible adhesive is used - especially as you have UFH. make sure the UFH is...

thats the stuff. mapie, bal and palace all do a kit like that - 40-50 quid

might well be more down to the porcelain, but its a common issue with watercooled cutters. Try to go slow and not push it through. if your doing straight cuts you may well be better off with a dry cutter such as a RUBI TX700 blade change is unlikely to make a big difference.

xr4x4 is right, but if you have already fitted the plasterboard you can leave it alone and tank the surface before you tile. Search for a tanking kit

yeah thats quite common. regarding fixings - it depends which one. aquapanel is 9-12mm thick and so are some of the other cement based boards so yes they are better than PB, that said, if you can hit the framework its always going to be better.

agree about it getting wet - worse than pb, but when you add to that type & cost of adhesive you'd need to get any kind of reliable bond - forget it, its false economy. if your really watching the pennies then use m/r plasterboard and tank it in the wet areas, if not use a cement panel or...

nope, dont even think about it ;-)