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Definately adhesive, powedered and if they are light in colour, white. Unless they are very flat you may struggle with only 5mm though

in answer to the board question, use a tile backer board such as no-more-ply, wedi or hardie of knauf aquaboard (cement based one). This is essential in the wet areas, you can save a bit of cash by using MR plasterboard in the dry areas - dont skim either of them, theres absolutely no point.

For straight cuts you'd be far better off hiring a decent dry cutter like a rubi TS700. loads quicker and more accurate. then just use the wet cutter for angled cuts. to stop the chipping scribe the cut with a dry cutter first

i agree with gregers, but i'd chuck the chip away and use 25mm ply, then you'd only have a little to build up. Alternatively use 18mm ply over that chipboard instead of the backerboard.

i found the pic thanks. Yep that adhesive has got to come off, at least to the point where its only a stain rather than an unevenness

cant see a pic, but basically scrape\knock off the old adhesive first

depends on the grout and how much you are filling, lots of grouts need a minimum depth to gain a key. if its just a few low spots you should be fine, but if the whole area is a bit rough then it may not take. That said you've nothing to lose, if you do go over it and then it starts to come out...

I see what you mean. doesnt look like soak through staining. if you havent already it may be worth speaking directly to lithofin (well casdron in the UK) and explain the issue, their tech dept is veryn helpful. i would think you would be needing wexa or a (very) small amount of cement away...

Some photos may help. its possible that the staining has come from the side\back rather than on top, this does happen with light natural stone. Pop some photos on and lets see!

silicone. You can get a mapei one that exactly matches. Just a word of caution though, you really needed epoxy grout on a worktop

if you have used a cement backerboard you'll be fine without tanking that sort of area.

Yes. use an acrylic bonding agent. whatever you do, dont use PVA.

Sorry didnt mean to put you off! laminate wont last long in a bathroom so it might well be worth the effort

tileGiant do Mapei so they may be worth a phone call, but the independent is perhaps your best bet. Topps charge a fortune for adhesive. You can order from me for £18.98 a bag, but i would think the delivery would outweigh any saving TBH

the main thing you should look for is a single part flexible adhesive, this means its polymer modified and ideal for porcelain. the single part bit means its just a bag of powder that you mix with water. assuming your buying locally (as delivery will cost you obv) which tile shops do you have...

Not really. the adhesive will stick and flex but your tiles wont flex and they are very likely to crack. Chipboard falls apart if it gets wet and if it swells your tiles will lift. At this stage your best to either overboard it with 6mm cement backer board (stops the first problem and helps...

Ditch the chipboard or overboard it with a cement backer board or your going to get cracked tiles or lifting tiles at some point. SLC over UFH is simply to protect the wires, if you are careful with your trowel when adding the adhesive it'll be fine

A rapid set will give you roughly 40 minutes pot life. If you'd rather use a standard set take a look at BAL, Mapei, Granfix, Weber, TileMaster - any of the trade brands. Stay away from the diy sheds and either go to your local tile shop or order online.

sorry to bring bad news, but durabase is a decoupling membrane thats used to stop problems caused by lateral movement, not vertical deflection thats introduced by wooden boards. It needs overboarding with 6mm backerboards or 18mm ply.

You do need grout. Even the originals did have it, even if they were narrow (and it was fine sand mortar not grout. That said, it can be very fine. With those tiles you need a specialist tiler thats done it before, there is very little room for error. Use a single part flexible adhesive, and...