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yes to before, sometimes after too!

Its usually somewhere between 40 mins and 3 hours. the ditra will slow it down a little but not much as its a chemical set. room temperature is the main thing. BTW if its light trav, make sure you get a white rapid set, not grey.

Sure it would be fine as long as he's not had it long. This little job aside, its awful stuff for floors\walls\anywhere to be honest and i'd not have used it on the floor in the first place ;-)

Yes its normal, but you might need a better\new blade. That aside, a good dry cutter is far better for cutting porcelain\ceramics, with the wet cutter used just for the odd angled cut. Hire a RUBI TX to match your tile size (700 for a 600mm tile, and so on) you'll save hours

In the photos quite a lot of it looks loose - not sure if thats just my eyes! if it is then chop it back and dry line it with a tile backer board or MR plasterboard (dry areas only). if you do this, you dont need (or want) to skim it. If you do fill it, hardwall isn't great. its not really...

Ah right, thats fine then. Once tanked it'll be fine.

It doesn't matter as long as he tanks it, MR plasterboard still falls apart on contact with water, it is completely inadequate. - tanking is the key. He has however completely wasted his time and money by skimming it if its being tiled. Theres no need and unskimmed board is a better surface...

use an acrylic or sbr primer, not PVA

Hello, In terms of the tiles breaking, then any decent porcelain will stand far more than any human can throw at it as long as its fitted properly. You might have a tougher time with mirrors\shower screens than tiles. The only thing i would say is that none of them are soft\cushioning and so...

yep aqua board, no more ply, wedi etc. tanking comes in 2 forms, liquid and membrane. liquid is easier for diy (IMO). it comes in a kit which you paint on. and yes it makes the plasterboard waterproof from the front

Ok, i'll answer your questions and also add another option! 1. Dont bother doing this, it'll end up a time consuming job and building up adhesive is a pain. It will also restrict your choice of tiles to the small sizes and if the plaster behind isn't great, then you are hanging a lot of...

Yes thats fine. if the vinyl adhesive is impossible to get off, you can go over that too. Depending on the adhesive you are using you can either prime it, then tile, or you can lay SLC over it then tile

Hi Adam, yes i know what you mean. we find 18mm is fine for overboarding (although backerboard is better), but 25mm is min for straight over the joists. We do see issues if noggins havent been used, but not general ply failures - either way i suspect the OP isn't going to be able to find out...

the only reason a full tile is avoided is to allow cuts to be used to absorb variations in the wall. if everything is perfectly square then there is no issue.

Could you post some pictures perhaps? Theres nothing wrong with tiling directly onto ply if its been fixed properly and the correct adhesive has been used, but i suspect that adam is right in that there is something bigger going wrong here

if the plasterboard is still ok you could tank it - basically the grout is never going to waterproof it - even on a perfect job

without wanting to sound like the voice of doom, even if you could match the size i'm afraid the colour shading would be very unlikely to match. The colour varies between batches on any tile, and so does the thickness and size in quite a lot of cases - this can be by only a couple of mm but its...

Tile the whole floor. you dont want an untiled area for the water to collect in

too thin, and concerning he's trying to sell it. Should be using a backer board on the walls anyway, not ply.

forgetting the PVA for a moment, its a good sign that he has asked for bagged adhesive, however 8 bags is extreme for 14 m2, assuming its a 20kg bag. If he's using a 10mm notched trowel then thats no problem, if he's just putting a solid bed of 10mm then that is a problem. 14m2 - usage should...