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The joists in my loft are 100mm deep and are at 19" centres which gives 41 - 43cm gaps to be filled with insulation. Currently I have none. I was going to get the space blanket from B&Q as it just seems so easy to lay, but it's width is only 37cm. Will this mean it's a bad idea, I mean will...

Thank you very much indeed. Got my work cut out tonight!

Hi there. I've got a plasterer coming in a couple of days to skim a couple of rooms and so I'm busy getting them ready. The walls have been stripped of their woodchip to reveal some old paint. It comes off with a sharp scraper but would take days to do the whole room. Does it need to come...

I don't get using plasterboard myself, surely it's not strong enough? I mean if someone fell against it surely it would break?

Oh christ please tell me that's not the case! I've done all the boxing in the bathroom in exterior plywood. I knew I might have to seal it with pva solution or preservative/sealer before the tiler applies the tiles but I thought wbp was the reecommended stuff to use in bathrooms. Here's hoping!

Thanks that product ooks like a good idea, why not WBP though? I have a load in the garage and I've used it for all the other joinery in the bathroom, so you've got me worried! Many thanks.

Hi there, I've already posted a similar thread in the bathroom section but I guess this would be a job for a joiner so for all you joiners/carpenters out there; I want to tile the side of the bath rather than use the cheap looking acrylic bath panel. So, I thought I'd use 12mm WBP, fixed in...

Hi there tonygerm, yes I see what you mean. I have limited space available so I want to incorporate door(s) in the panel. These might also be useful for storing cleaning equipment etc.

I want to tile the side of the bath rather than use the cheap looking acrylic bath panel. So, I thought I'd use 12mm WBP, fixed in place onto batons running vertically from the timber floor to the timber of the bath. I want to design in access to the pipework at the tap end in case of...

Yeah, I have done already. I'm going to try to box it level, the rear of this bath is square so it shouldn't be to difficult. Here's hoping!!

But shouldn't it be just the same as sealing against a wall where the sealant has to cope with the flex of the bath?

Thanks JohnD. The end that needs boxing in is the head end i.e. the end without the taps. The shower is at the other end and so water could fall onto this new ledge which is why I was thinking about whether to try to get the top of the boxing level with the bath so water could drain away.

Thanks MANDATE, much appreciated. Anyone else got any thoughts on this? Cheers

Hi there, the bath in question is acrylic and it's end falls short of the house wall by 6" or so. What is the best practice for boxing out this dead space? Should I arrange the boxing so that when tiled the lip of the bath sits on top of it or should I try to have the tiles level witht he top of...

Thanks Softus, put my mind at rest and I'm about to get underway now which should mean the missus can have a bath in the morning!

I'm changing the layout of some copper pipes. I've cut into an existing pipe and have prepared the various joints, applied flux to the bits (I'm using solder ring fittings) and just have a couple more bits to do before I can get the flame lit and start soldering the joints. My question is how...

Are people really spray painting the insides of houses these days? I've never heard of decorators doing that. I take it this sort of equipment isn't that cheap, or can you hire it? Sounds like a great idea, but I'll probably stick to the idea of doing it with a roller, unless the consensus is...

Thanks Powerpainter, I haven't got around to it yet, it's my next job. Can you provide a link just to show a suitable spray gun? I was going to use a foam "gloss" mini roller. Cheers.

Thanks Zampa, I'll be doing this later on witha roller then. Reassuring to know, enough hiccups in this job already!

Which is to never go for the quick dry finish again. I took the tin back to BQ and exchanged it for the normal Dulux satinwood and I've just finished putting it on after more sanding etc. What a difference! The finish is excellent but the trade off is that it'll take the next 16hrs before I can...