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the drop is already in 10mm already as it is an existing system. I just want to add one radiator onto the system in the conservatory. I no that 8mm is a no no and 15 is best but if I can get away with it on 10 mm then it's a much smaller job.

Can anyone tell me if you can run two radiators in parallel from one drop of 10 mm pipework, or does it have to be 15mm to do this? Thanks.

Ok have tried a few things. When you have the thermostat calling for the central heating on it's fine. If you turn the water cylinder temp down , then no problem that thermostat seems to be working ok. If however you turn the central heating thermostat down so the radiators are not being...

Actually I down rated the replacement shower as the original 9.5KW was on 6mm cable so it was right on the limit of the cables capacity. I put an 8.5kw in to be on the safe side for the cable, but was trying to work out the original sparks logic of putting 9.5kw on a 32 amp MCB.

Interesting.. The shower had been installed by a qualified sparks so I would have thought that the correct MCB would have been a 45amp for a 9.5KW rating as it would draw 42 amps.

I came across an interesting one the other day. It was a faulty Triton shower rated at 9.5KW. However the MCB for it in the consumer unit was rated at 32amps. (Definitely the shower one as when switched off the power to the shower was off.) Now if you take 9500watts and divide by 240...

will do.. thanks

Do you mean the boiler thermostat or the tank thermostat that stops the water from going through the tank heating coil?

The vent pipe that curves over the top of the F&E tank is not shown in the picture it is the vent from the pipe that comes out of the hot water cylinder. At the moment the pump is set to setting '2' or med speed. I will try it with the thermostat on the boiler turned right down as low as...

When the system is turned off it stops gushing. Yes the immersion heater is turned off. The rads are a little hotter than they have been but I don't know if that is because the new pump is working better than the old one. The boiler is set to the medium setting.

What I mean is that hot water is coming out of the vent pipe at the top of the cylinder and going into the feed and expansion tank in the loft... sorry if I didn't make myself clear enough. As the F and E tank fills it is of course spilling over hot water from the tank and the water in the...

That one has an air vent at the top and the other end goes into the tank at the top of the heating coil.

Here are a couple of pictures of the system. [/img]

The system was working fine then started kettling when it seemed the pump had failed.

Any help appreciated here. The central heating system is fully pumped and has two x 2 port valves. One for the central heating which is motorized and the one for the hot water works with a remote sensor on the tank but shuts using the same system as a TRV (not sure of the correct term for...

No.. there is no bleed valve. There is also no diverter valves and no thermostat on the tank. The system has always been run wiuth both heating and water on. On water only it goes over into the tank above and makes noises. We have been in the property for a year. Sounds like it has been...

or has anyone else got any ideas?

could it possibly be the motorized valve becoming stuck and intermittently freeing itself?

as far as I can tell it is. The pipes are up above the boiler and boxed in, so I removed the front cover.

3 pipes in total on the top of the boiler. 2 large 22mm and one small 15 mm